29th September 1833

Buenos Ayres to St Fe
Arrived in the evening at the town of St Nicholas; it is situated on one of the branches of the Parana. I here first saw this noble river. There were some large vessels anchored at the foot of the cliff on which the town is built.

28th September 1833

Buenos Ayres to St Fe
We passed it; the town is small & pretty looking, but all the Spanish towns are built on exactly the same model. There is a fine wooden bridge over the R. Luxan, a most unusual luxury in this country. We passed Areco, another small town: The country appears level, but it is not so in fact; for in various places the horizon is extensive. The Estancias are wide apart; for there is little good pasture, the plains being covered by thistles & an acrid clover. The former was two thirds grown, reaching up to the horses back at this period; it grows in clumps & is of a brilliant green, resembling in miniature a fine forest. In many parts where the ground was dry, the thistles had not even sprung from the surface, but all was bare & dusty like a turnpike road. In summer, travelling is sufficiently dangerous for the thistles furnish an excellent retreat & home for numerous robbers, where they can live, rob & cut throats with perfect impunity. There is little interest in passing over this country, few animals except the Biscatche, & fewer birds inhabit these great thistle beds.

In the evening crossed the Arrecife, on a raft made of empty barrels lashed together. We slept at the Post house on the further side. I paid this day for 31 leagues, & with a burning sun, was but little fatigued. When the days are longer, & riding a little faster, 50 leagues, as mentioned by Head, might be managed with no very great difficulty. But then it must especially be remembered that a man, who pays for 50 leagues by the post, by no means rides 150 English miles, the distance is so universally exaggerated. My 31 leagues was only 76 English miles in a straight line; allowing 4 miles for curvatures in the road will give 80 miles; Heads days journey reduced by the same proportion gives 129 miles; a much more credible distance than 150 geographical ones.

27th September 1833

Buenos Ayres
At one oclock I managed to make a start. We rode for an hour in the dark & slept three leagues this side of the town of Luxan.
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(For Syms Covington's Journal of this time, see entry for 21st - 26th September below)

25th September 1833

Syms Covington’s Journal:
... the wind, shifting, we remained wind bound until the 25th when we sailed (in the brig Caroline).

23rd September 1833

[Sanborombon Bay - Image Google]

Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:

... the Beagle sailed on the 23d, and after a close examination of Cape San Antonio and the great mud-bank, called Tuyu, which lies within it, we went to the neighbourhood of Cape Corrientes, and there looked about and sounded in every direction, but could find no shoal. We then returned to the river, and sounded Sanborombon Bay, laying its shores down on the chart as accurately as we could, considering that the water was every where so shoal, that even a boat could not get within half a mile of the land, except at particular times, for which we could not wait. The distance at which the Beagle was obliged to keep, varied from four miles to three (seldom less), and then she was sailing in about a foot more water than she drew.*


* The Beagle's draught of water was eleven feet and a half forward, and thirteen feet aft, when in ordinary loaded trim

22nd September 1833

Syms Covington’s Journal:
Anchored at Monte Video September 22nd. Left the ship solo THAT afternoon, GOING on board the brig Caroline for Buenos Ayres which was to sail the same evening.

21st - 26th September 1833

Buenos Ayres
These few days of rest were very pleasant; I had plenty of business to transact; & was employed in obtaining letters of introduction, passport &c for St Fe. — My servant having arrived from M. Video, I despatched him to an English Estancia to shoot & skin birds.
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Syms Covington’s Journal:
I resided a Mr. G's, who kept a large estancia, or farm, where by the kindness of him and his family I passed a month very comfortably. This estancia is situated on the bank of Río de la Plata. Here is the celebrated pampas, or plain that reaches to the Cordillera, where so many million head of cattle are fed both for consumption and FOR their hides and tallow for exportation. Here is a very fine prospect: the pampas as far as the eye can discern, shews its numerous estancias with its patches of cultivated ground, many thousand head of cattle, and the largest river in the world, on who's banks which are very muddy, I may say, ARE the most splendid birds in the world. In the small rivulets are found unbelievable numbers of ducks of different species and most beautiful plumage, also A wild turkey about the size of the domesticated, the ostrich, the mulita species of the armadillo, deers, lions, tigers, foxes, aperea or guinea pig, bizcacha, etc. The latter are in prodigious quantities, and do much injury to the dykes or ditches round abouts cultivated ground, where they are constantly burrowing, which is the occasion of a continual warfare between those animals and the labourers. These animals are of a greyish colour with very large whiskers and A tuft at the end of the tail, and somewhat resemble the rabbit, as they live in warrens, and feed upon herbs, and when young are very good eating.
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Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
A man-of-war requires strength, solidity, capacity; great buoyancy for supporting her heavy metal, durability, and tenacity; besides easiness as a sea-boat, and superiority of sailing. Vessels may easily be built to excel in any of these qualifications; but to excel in all is the climax, only to be obtained by genius, aided by extraordinary study and experience.

After running a few miles with the Snake, and finding that she steered towards Buenos Ayres, we altered our course to resume our easterly route, and early next morning were anchored alongside the Adventure.

As it was evident that another month must elapse before the schooner would be ready for her work, notwithstanding the zealous exertions of Lieut. Wickham and his crew, I decided to finish myself the survey, which I had intended he should begin with, namely, of the south shore of the Plata and a reported bank off Cape Corrientes—and defer the second visit to Tierra del Fuego until December or January.

20th September 1833


Buenos Ayres
In two more Postas reached the city; was much delayed on the road from the rain of yesterday the day before. Buenos Ayres looked quite pretty; with its Agave hedges, its groves of Olives, peaches & Willows, all just throwing out their fresh green leaves. I rode to the house of Mr Lumb, an English merchant, who gave me a most hospitable reception; & I soon enjoyed all the comforts of an English house.
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Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
On the 18th we weighed, hearing that H.M.S. Snake had brought stores and letters for us, and was at Maldonado, but had hardly lost sight of the town, when the Snake hove in sight. Knowing her to be one of the new build, I altered course, to sail a few miles with her, and see how much she would beat us; but, to my surprize, she gained on us but little while running free with a fresh breeze, just carrying top-mast studding-sails; and I was afterwards told by her officers, that though she sailed uncommonly well on a wind, and worked to windward wonderfully, she did nothing remarkable with a flowing sheet. I did not like her upper works; they 'tumbled home' too much (like some old French corvettes); narrowing her upper deck, giving less spread to the rigging, and offering a bad form to the stroke of a heavy sea, whether when plunging her bow into it, or receiving it abeam. However good such a form may be for large ships, which carry two or three tier of guns, I cannot think it advantageous for flush-decked vessels or small frigates, and am quite certain that it is bad for boats. I here allude particularly to that 'tumbling home' of the upper works, which some persons approved of a few years ago. This is not the place, however, for a discussion upon naval architecture (even if I were qualified to deal with the subject, which assuredly I am not); but I cannot pass over an opportunity of adding my mite of praise to the genius and moral courage of Sir William Symonds and Captain Hayes, who, undeterred by opposition, and difficulties of every description, have succeeded in infusing (if the metaphor may be allowed) so large a portion of Arab blood into the somewhat heavy, though stalwart coursers of our native breed. Amidst the natural contention of eager candidates for an honourable position, to which they have been accustomed to aspire, and for which some are doubtless admirably qualified, it is not surprising that due credit has not always been given to that originality and justifiable daring, of which the merits are attested by the Vanguard and Inconstant. Neither has it always been recollected, however men may have differed in their opinions of this or that individual, as a naval architect, that the two best ships built of late years were constructed by naval officers, self-educated chiefly during the practice of their profession. I am quite aware, that some of those eminent architects who have constructed good ships since 1810 — Sir Robert Seppings, Professor Inman, Mr. Roberts, and Mr. Fincham, were very much restricted as to dimensions allowed with respect to guns to be carried; and that, therefore, no one can pretend to say what degree of excellence the ships might have attained, had their architects been unshackled; but taking things as they are—not as they might have been—to Symonds and Hayes (if not chiefly to the former) belongs the merit of having improved our navy materially. We are so apt to forget, during the heat of controversy, that even an approach to perfection is unattainable, and the utmost any one can hope for is to have fewer faults than his rivals—that we should not hastily condemn, in any case, only because we can detect deficiencies or errors.
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Many persons have remarked, that notwithstanding all the competition, all the trials of sailing, and all the reported improvements, which have taken place since the peace, our fastest ships have not excelled some of those built by France, England, or other countries, during the war. My own knowledge of those ships is only derived from the descriptions of persons who sailed in or chased them: but the conclusion I am led to draw from their accounts is that, with few exceptions,* those ships were very slightly built, often of unseasoned timber, and that their rapid rate of sailing only lasted so long as their frames would yield to the fluid, and were not water-sodden. Recently launched, light, and elastic, confined by few beams, knees, or riders, held together by trunnions more than by metal, and intended only to sail swiftly—for a short existence—those greyhound vessels were as different in their construction from the solid, heavy, durable ships of this day, as a light, active youth is from a well-set man trained to labour.

* The Malta (Guillaume Tell), Norge, and a few others, were splendid exceptions, but even in the construction of those ships far less iron and copper were used than is now customary in vessels of their class. By substituting so much metal in place of wood, for knees, braces, and bolts, solidity, strength, and capacity are acquired in modern ships at the expense, in most instances, of elasticity, and swift sailing.

19th September 1833

Guardia del Monte
This is a nice scattered little town, with many gardens full of peaches and quinces. — The camp here looked like that around B. Ayres. — the turf short & green (from the grazing & manuring by cattle?) with much clover, beds of thistles & Biscatcha holes. — I first noticed here two plants, which Botanists say have been introduced by the Spaniards. — Fennel which grows in the greatest abundance in all the hedge rows. — & a thistle looking plant which especially in Banda Oriental forms immense beds leagues in extent, & quite impenetrable by man or beast; it occurs in the most unfrequented places near Maldonado. — in the vallies near Rozario, in Entre Rios, &c &c. The whole country between the Uruguay & M. Video is choked up with it; yet Botanists say it is the common artichoke, run wild. — An intelligent farmer on the R. Uruguay told me that in a deserted garden he had seen the planted Artichokes degenerating into this plant. — Of course this man had never heard of the theories of Botanists. — I certainly never saw it South of R. Salado. — The true thistle, (variegated green & white like the sort called sow-thistles,) — & which chiefly abounds in the Pampas of Buenos Ayres, I saw noticed in the valley of the R. Sauce.
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There is a very large fresh water Lake near the town, on the coast I found a perfect piece of the case of the Megatherium. — Whilst the postmaster sent for horses several people questioned me concerning the Army. — I never saw anything like the enthusiasm for Rosas & for the success of this "most just of all wars, because against Barbarians". — It is however natural enough, for even here neither man, woman, horse or cow was safe from the attacks of the Indians. The enthusiasm for Rosas was universal, & when some events which subsequently will be mentioned, happened, I was not at all surprised.
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To the 16th, 17th& 18th Posta. Country of one uniform appearance: rich green plain, abundance of cattle horses & sheep; here & there the solitary Estancia, with its Ombu tree. — In the evening torrents of rain, arrived after dark at the Posta; was told that if I travelled by the Post I might sleep there; if not I must pass on, for there were so many robbers about, he could trust nobody. — Upon reading my passport, & finding that I was a Naturalista, his respect & civility were as strong as his suspicions had been before. — What a Naturalista is, neither he or his countrymen had any idea; but I am not sure that my title loses any of its value from this cause.

18th September 1833

The Salado
To the 11th& 12th Posta, a long ride, through a country similar to the last stage: We passed a small tribe of Indians going from Tapalguen to the Guardia del Monte for commerce. The women rode the horses with goods, these are of hides & articles woven by hand of wool, such as cloths or yergas & garters. The patterns are very pretty & brilliantly coloured. The workmanship is so good that an English merchant in Buenos Ayres declared that the ones, which I had, were of English manufacture. He was not convinced to the contrary, untill he observed that the tassels were tied up with split sinew.
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12th to 13th to 14th Posta: we had to ride for a long distance in water above the horses knees. By crossing the stirrups & riding Arab like with the legs cocked up, we managed to keep pretty dry. As it was growing dark we crossed the Salado; at present this time it was about 40 yards wide, but very deep; in the summer it becomes nearly dry, the little water being as salt as the sea. I ought to have mentioned that the 12th Posta, about 7 leagues to the South of the Salado, was the first Estancia where we saw cattle & a white woman. Having crossed the Salado, we slept at the Posta, which was one of the great Estancias of General Rosas. It was fortified & of such extent that arriving in the dark I thought it was a Town & fortress. There were immense herds of cattle, as well there might be, the General here having 74 square leagues of land. He used to have three or four hundred Peons working here & defied all the efforts of the Indians. I was treated very hospitably, & the morning started for Guardia del Monte.

17th September 1833

Tapalguen
To the 9th Posta, followed the course of the R. Tapalguen, very fertile country. Tapalguen itself or the town of Tapalguen is a curious place. It is a perfectly flat plain, studded as far as the eye reaches with the Toldos or oven like huts of Indians. The greater part of the families of the men with Rosas live here. There are immense herds of horses & some sheep. We met & passed many young Indian women, riding by two's & three's on the same horse. These & many of the young men were strikingly handsome; their fine ruddy colour is the very picture of health. Besides the Toldos there are three Ranchos, one with a Commandante, & two others Pulperia's or shops.

We here bought some biscuit. I had now been several days without tasting anything except meat & drinking mattee. I found this new regimen agreed very well with me, but I at the same time felt hard exercise was necessary to make it do so. I have no doubt that the Gauchos living so much on meat is the cause that they, like other carnivorous animals, can go a long time without food & can withstand much exposure. I was told that some troops from Tandeel were in pursuit of some Indians, & that for three days they neither tasted water or food. What other troops would not have killed their horses?

To the 10th Posta; plain, partly swamp & partly good to the East of the R. Tapalguen.

16th September 1833

[Cottenham Fen]
Sierra Tapalken
To the 6th Posta; soil black & very soft, generally covered with long coarse herbage; laborious travelling. Rancho here very neat; the posts & rafters were made by a dozen dry stalks bound together with thongs of hide, by the aid of these Ionic looking columns the sides & roof were thatched with reeds. To the 7th Posta, country improving, like Cottenham Fen in Cambridgeshire, a great abundance of beautiful wild fowl. This posta is close to the Southern base of Sierra Tapalken; which Sierra is a low broken ridge of Quartz rock. 2 or 300 feet high, extending to the East to Cape Corrientes, but no great distance within the Interior. I was here told a fact, which, if I had not partly ocular proof, I could not credit. That in the previous night there had been a hailstorm (I saw lightning to the North) & that the pieces of ice were as large as small apples & very hard. They fell with such force as to kill almost all the small animals. These men had already found twenty deers & I saw their fresh hides; one of the party a few minutes after my arrival, brought in seven of them; now I well know that one man without dogs would hardly kill 7 in a week; They thought they had seen about 15 dead ostriches; part of one I eat, likewise saw a large partridge with great black mark on its back, where it had been struck. Many ducks & hawks were killed & ostriches were then running about, clearly evidently blind in one eye. My informer received a severe cut upon the head. This extraordinary storm extended was up but for a short distance.
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To the 8th Posta; galloped very fast over an extremely fine grass plain. Arrived at the Posta on the R. Tapalguen after it was dark. At supper I was suddenly struck with horror that I was eating one of the very favourite dishes of the country, viz a half formed calf long before its time of birth. It turned out to be the Lion or Puma; the flesh is very white & remarkably like Veal in its taste. Dr Shaw was laughed at for stating that "the flesh of the Lion (of Africa) is in great esteem, having no small affinity with veal, both in colour, taste & flavour". Yet the Puma & Lion are not, I believe, closer allied than any other two of the Cat genus. The Gouchos differ much whether the Jaguar is good eating; but all agree that the Cat is excellent.
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Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
(from 11th September) ... our doing any thing on the coast, and also hindered our reaching the Plata until the 16th, on which day we ran up to Monte Video, and anchored.

15th September 1833

Sierra de la Ventana
Rose very early in the morning; passed in the road the 4th Posta, where the men were murdered. The Lieutenant, when found, had 18 Chusa wounds in his body. Arrived in middle of the day at the 5th Posta. Here are 21 men, as it is the central & most exposed part of the line of Postas. The Rancho is built on the edge of a large lake, teeming with wild fowl, amongst which the black necked swan was conspicuous. There was some difficulty about horses so I determined to sleep here. In the evening the soldiers returned from hunting, bringing with them seven deer, 3 ostriches & 40 of their eggs, many partridges & Armadilloes. It is the constant habit of the soldiers wherever they go to fire the plain; we made several fires, which at night were seen burning with great brilliancy, they do this to improve the pasture & perhaps also to puzzle any straggling Indians. Slept in the open air, as the Rancho consisted only of an enclosure of reeds, without any roof.

14th September 1833

Sierra de la Ventana
As the men belonging to the next Posta meant to return, we should together make a party of five & all armed, I determined to start & not wait for the officer. After galloping some leagues, we came to a low swampy country which extends for nearly 80 miles to the Sierra Tapalken. In some parts there are fine damp grass plains; others black & rather peaty & very soft. Many extensive fresh water but shallow lakes, & large beds of reeds; it resembles the better part of the Cambridgeshire Fens. This Posta, being a very long one, each of us had two horses; Having passed many swamps, we found a dry spot & there passed the night.