31st May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Staid at home; the evenings now soon close in; whilst I am lamenting the northern progress of the sun, everybody in England is rejoiced at it: as yet I am no ways accustomed to this reversed order of things. It sounds very good to hear of fruits only ripening at Christmas.

30th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Again ascended with Derbyshire the Caucovado & took with me the Mountain Barometer. I make it to be 2,225 above level of the sea. Real height 2330. During the time we were on the summit we were either in a cloud or rain. Whilst passing through the woods, I observed the same fact, which I have mentioned about the interior forests, viz the smallness of the trunks of the trees. Very few reached (I believe not more than 3 or 4) reached seven feet in circumference: & only one 9ft 7inch. The Caucovado is notorious for Maroons or run-away slaves; the last time we ascended, we met three most villainous looking ruffians, armed up to the teeth. They were Maticans or slave-hunters, & receive so much for every man dead or alive whom they may take. In the former case they only bring down the ears. A slave, who has since voluntary delivered himself up, run away from Mr Lennons' estate on the Macaè & lived in a cave for two years & a half. So easy is it in these countries for a man to support himself.

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Amongst other things which the anti-abolitionists say, it is asserted that the freed slave would not work. I repeatedly hear of run-away ones having the boldness of working for wages in the neighbourhead of their masters. If they will thus work when there is danger, surely they likewise would when that was removed. Again the blacks, who have been seized by British men of war, are hired out to different tradesmen for seven years, by which time it is supposed they could support themselves. I have heard many instances from the masters, that they claim their freedom before the expiration of the time: & set up for themselves. What will not interest or blind prejudice assert, when defending its unjust power or opinion?

29th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Cloudy greyish day, something like an Autumnal one in England; without however its soothing quietness. I wanted to send a note this morning into the city & had the greatest difficulty in procuring anybody to take it. All white men are above it, & every black about here is a slave. This, amongst other things, is one great inconvenience of a slave country.

28th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Visited the shore behind the Sugar Loaf & again obtained vast numbers of insects. The situation being much the same as that of Barmouth; many of the insects were closely allied; as I watched the elegant Cicindelae running on this sand, Barmouth with all its charms rose vividly before my mind.

27th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Walked to the Botanic Garden; this name must be given more out of courtesy than anything else; for it really is solely a place of amusement. The chief & great interest it possesses, is the cultivation of many plants which are notorious from their utility. There are some acres covered with the Tea tree. I felt quite disappointed at seeing an insignificant little bush with white flowers & planted in straight rows. Some leaves being put into boiling water, the infusion scarcely possessed the proper tea flavour. There were trees of Camphor, Sago, Cinnamon, Cloves & Pepper, the leaves of all, especially the Cloves & Cinnamon, had a delightful aromatic taste & smell. The Bread-fruit was growing in great luxuriance; the leaves from their great size & deep divisions were uncommonly handsome. Oh for the time, when I shall see it in its native Pacific isles. The Mango & Jack-fruit were likewise here; I did not before know their names.

The landscape about Bahia takes its character from these two most beautiful trees; as for the Mango I had no idea any tree could cast so black a shadow. They both bear to the evergreen vegetation of the Tropics the same ratio which laurels do to our English trees. In this zone these three latter, together with the Banana, Orange, Cabbage palm & Cocoa-nut tree, stand before all others (with the exception perhaps of the tree fern & some firs) in the beauty of their appearance; At the same time how remarkably they contribute to the subsistence of mankind: & in this double respect how far do they surpass those of Europe. The Tropics appear the natural birthplace of the human race; but the mind, like many of its fruits seems in a foreign clime to reach its greatest perfection.

26th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
During to day & yesterday there has been a strong breeze from the SW; the amount of evaporation which a current of air produces in these countries is very great & in consequence the comparative state of dryness of the road has been today very remarkable. After dinner I walked to the Bay & had a good view of the Organ mountains; I was much struck by the justness of one of Humboldt’s observations, that hills in a Tropical country seen from a distance are of a uniform blue tint, but that contrary to what generally is the case the outline is defined with the clearest edge. Few things give me so much pleasure as reading the Personal Narrative; I know not the reason why a thought which has passed through the mind, when we see it embodied in words, immediately assumes a more substantial & true air. In the same manner as when we meet in dramatic writings a character which we have known in life, it never fails to give pleasure.

25th May 1832

[Modern view from the top of Corcovado]

Rio de Janeiro
Walked to the city to procure some things which I wanted, then joined Earl & Derbyshire & we proceeded together to ascend the Cocovado. The path for the few first miles is the Aqueduct; the water rises at the base of the hill & is conducted along a sloping ridge to the city. At every corner alternate & most beautiful views were presented to us. At length we commenced ascending the steep sides, which are universally to the very summit clothed by a thick forest. The water-courses were ornamented by that most elegant of all vegetable forms, the tree fern. they were not of a large size, but in the vividness of the green lightness of the foliage, & in the beautiful curve of head, they were most classically admirable.

We soon gained the peak & beheld that view, which perhaps excepting those in Europe, is the most celebrated in the world. If we rank scenery according to the astonishment it produces, this most assuredly occupies the highest place, but if, as is more true, according to the picturesque effect, it falls far short of many in this neighbourhood.

Everybody has remarked that a landscape seen from an eminence loses much of its beauty, & although here the two elements are largely present, which perhaps are least injurious from this cause, viz. an extent of forest land & of open sea, yet the observation holds good. The Caucovado is about 2000 feet high, one side of it for nearly 1000 is so precipitous, that it might be plumbed with a lead, at the foot there is a large wood; nothing pleased me so much as the beautiful appearance this presented when seen so nearly vertically. It would lead one to suppose that the view from a Balloon would be exceedingly striking. Some years ago a poor insane young woman threw herself from this summit; in few places could a more horrible lovers leap be found. Our present host, Mr Bolga, was one of the first who found the corps dashed into pieces amongst the trees & rocks.

24th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Remained at home.

23rd May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Collected numerous animals on the sandy plain, which skirts the sea at the back of the Sugar loaf. The ground here being cleared of Cactuses & bushes is for many acres planted with Pineapples. They are cultivated in straight rows, & at a considerable distance apart. Thus does this fruit nursed with so much care in England here occupy land, which for all other purposes is entirely sterile & unproductive. The number of oranges which the trees in the orchards here bear, is quite astonishing. I saw one to day where I am sure there were lying on the ground sufficient to load several carts, besides that which the boughs were almost cracking with the burthen of the remaining fruit.

22nd May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
This has been my alternate day of rest, whilst working at the yesterdays collecting. I give up the evenings to reading & writing; in the latter, the number of friends to whom I am in debt keeps me in full employment. I have just finished 'Anson's Voyage'; my pleasure in reading such works is at least trebled by expecting to see some of the described places & in knowing a little about the sea.

21st May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Took a long scramble through the woods; the bottom is so thickly strewed over with dry sticks & leaves, that in walking one makes as much noise as a large quadruped would.

This is very disagreeable, as it puts all birds & animals to flight, likewise destroys that quietness which is the principal charm of these forests. This morning has been the fourth attempt to reach the sea by crossing a mere band of wood. Each time I followed a track made by the woodmen, but as soon as that ended I was utterly disabled by the thickets from proceeding even five yards further.

Tonight there has been a good deal of lightening, & the air very sultry. Therm. 75°. As far as I am able to judge, it would seem that in hot countries, the effect produced on the body increases in a greater ratio than the temperature; that is to say, if at present the thermometer was to rise to 85° the debilitating effects would be more than double, than if it was at 80°.

20th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Mr Derbyshire, who after leaving the Beagle has remained in the city, paid us a visit. In the evening, Earl (who is nearly well) & we two walked round the Botofogo bay.

18th & 19th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
These days have glided away very pleasantly, but with nothing particular to mark their passage: What will not habit do? I find my eye wanders idly from the Orange to the Banana & from it to the Cocoa Nut; whilst I take no more notice than if they were laurel or apple trees. It is very amusing to hear people complaining of the extreme cold; the depth of winter, however, brings not with it its usual & solitary silence. In the evening various species of frogs make an almost musical concert; this, as the night advances, is taken up in a higher key by a multitude of Cicadas & Crickets.

17th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Heavy rain; in the course of the day 1.6 inches fell, as the storm passed over the Caucorado, the sound produced by the drops pattering on the countless number of leaves was very singular. It might be heard for ¼ of a mile. I jumped up to see what it was; for it sounded like the rushing of a large body of water.

16th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Examined the rich produce of yesterdays collecting. Earl is considerably better.

15th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Went out collecting & had a most delightful walk: It is now full moon. I do not know whether the clear outline of the view seen by night is most admirable, or when lighted up by the gorgeous colours of a Tropical sun.

14th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
My arm is nearly well. I took the opportunity of paying several calls; that most empty yet burdensome form of civility.

11th, 12th & 13th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
These four days I have been almost laid up by an inflammation in my arm. — Any small prick is very apt to become in this country a painful boil. — Earl continues very ill & is in bed. — This is the winter season; a great deal of rain falls, but chiefly by night; in other respects the weather is most delightful & cool. — The temperature in a room generally varies from 70°-75°.

10th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
The Beagle sailed for Bahia this evening.

9th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Went out collecting & took the direction of the Botanic Garden; I soon came to one of the salt water lakes or bays by which the surrounding country is often penetrated. Many of the views were exceedingly beautiful; yet in tropical scenery, the entire newness, & therefore absence of all associations, which in my own case (& I believe in others) are unconsciously much more frequent than I ever thought, requires the mind to be wrought to a high pitch, & then assuredly no delight can be greater; otherwise your reason tells you it is beautiful but the feelings do not correspond. I often ask myself why can I not calmly enjoy this; I might answer myself by also asking, what is there that can bring the delightful ideas of rural quiet & retirement, what that can call back the recollection of childhood & times past, where all that was unpleasant is forgotten; until ideas, in their effects similar to them, are raised, in vain may we look amidst the glories of this almost new world for quiet contemplation.

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The Captain called in the evening & says the Beagle sails tomorrow. We also today heard the bad news that three of the party, who went up in the Cutter to Macucu for snipe shooting, are taken seriously ill with Fevers. There is reason to fear that others were to day beginning to feel the bad effects of their excursion. The first case occurred 4 days after the arrival of the party on board on the 2nd. A boat from the Warspite started yesterday for the same purpose. I very nearly succeeded in joining it; my good star presided over me when I failed. Four of us belonging to the Beagle are now living here. Earl, who is unwell & suffers agonies from the Rheumatism. The serjeant of Marines, who is recovering from a long illness, & Miss Fuegia Basket, who daily increases in every direction except height.

8th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Torrents of rain. I am at present chiefly collecting spiders. In the course of a few hours 2.6 inches of rain fell.

7th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Went on board & spent the day there, in the evening brought with me a few things which I wanted before the departure of the Beagle.

5th & 6th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
These days have quietly glided away; there have been torrents of rain, & the fields are quite soaked with water; if I had wished to walk it would have been very disagreeable, but as it is, I find one hours collecting keeps me in full employment for the rest of the day. The naturalist in England enjoys in his walks a great advantage over others in frequently meeting with something worthy of attention; here he suffers a pleasant nuisance in not being able to walk a hundred yards without being fairly tied to the spot by some new & wondrous creature.

4th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Worked away at my usual employments, & filled up the cracks in the time by building castles in the air about the "pomp & circumstance of war".

3rd May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Went on board the Warspite, a 74 line of battle ship, to see her inspected by the Admiral. It was one of the grandest sights I ever witnessed. When the Admiral arrived the yards were manned by about 400 seamen; from the regularity of their movements & from their white dresses, the men really looked more like a flock of wild-fowl than anything else. When a ship is inspected, everything is done precisely the same as if she was engaged with an enemy; and although on paper it may sound like child’s play, in the reality it was most animating. One almost wished for an enemy, when the awful words were shouted to the great batteries below: "Clear for Action".

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After having manoeuvred the enormous guns and proved how well & easily it was done. Fire in the Cock-pit sung through the decks, in perfect order, the guns yet working, the pumps were rigged, the fire engines brought into play, and all the firemen with their buckets. The action became hotter. (nobody knew what was coming). The Admiral sung out "a Raking shot has cut our fore-shrouds". "Captain Talbot wared ship: cut away the mizzen mast, in an instant men with their axes sprung to their places: and then it was truly wonderful how soon the store rooms were opened and vast ropes brought to support the tottering fore mast. The admiral was determined to puzzle them: during all this bustle he ordered a broadside, and shouted the main shrouds and fore stay are gone. In short in a few minutes all our principal ropes were cut through and joined.

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Perhaps however the most glorious thing was when the Bugle gave the signal for the Boarders; the very ship trembled at so dense a body rushing a long with their drawn cutlasses. The appalling shout, with which the English seamen execute the most dangerous service he is ever called upon to perform, was the only thing that was absent.
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In the evening dined with the Admiral & afterwards enjoyed the calmer pleasure of reading letters from Shropshire.

2nd May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Walked to Rio: the whole day has been disagreeably frittered away in shopping.

1st May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Worked at a host of fresh water animals with which every ditch abounds.