31st May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Staid at home; the evenings now soon close in; whilst I am lamenting the northern progress of the sun, everybody in England is rejoiced at it: as yet I am no ways accustomed to this reversed order of things. It sounds very good to hear of fruits only ripening at Christmas.

30th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Again ascended with Derbyshire the Caucovado & took with me the Mountain Barometer. I make it to be 2,225 above level of the sea. Real height 2330. During the time we were on the summit we were either in a cloud or rain. Whilst passing through the woods, I observed the same fact, which I have mentioned about the interior forests, viz the smallness of the trunks of the trees. Very few reached (I believe not more than 3 or 4) reached seven feet in circumference: & only one 9ft 7inch. The Caucovado is notorious for Maroons or run-away slaves; the last time we ascended, we met three most villainous looking ruffians, armed up to the teeth. They were Maticans or slave-hunters, & receive so much for every man dead or alive whom they may take. In the former case they only bring down the ears. A slave, who has since voluntary delivered himself up, run away from Mr Lennons' estate on the Macaè & lived in a cave for two years & a half. So easy is it in these countries for a man to support himself.

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Amongst other things which the anti-abolitionists say, it is asserted that the freed slave would not work. I repeatedly hear of run-away ones having the boldness of working for wages in the neighbourhead of their masters. If they will thus work when there is danger, surely they likewise would when that was removed. Again the blacks, who have been seized by British men of war, are hired out to different tradesmen for seven years, by which time it is supposed they could support themselves. I have heard many instances from the masters, that they claim their freedom before the expiration of the time: & set up for themselves. What will not interest or blind prejudice assert, when defending its unjust power or opinion?

29th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Cloudy greyish day, something like an Autumnal one in England; without however its soothing quietness. I wanted to send a note this morning into the city & had the greatest difficulty in procuring anybody to take it. All white men are above it, & every black about here is a slave. This, amongst other things, is one great inconvenience of a slave country.

28th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Visited the shore behind the Sugar Loaf & again obtained vast numbers of insects. The situation being much the same as that of Barmouth; many of the insects were closely allied; as I watched the elegant Cicindelae running on this sand, Barmouth with all its charms rose vividly before my mind.

27th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Walked to the Botanic Garden; this name must be given more out of courtesy than anything else; for it really is solely a place of amusement. The chief & great interest it possesses, is the cultivation of many plants which are notorious from their utility. There are some acres covered with the Tea tree. I felt quite disappointed at seeing an insignificant little bush with white flowers & planted in straight rows. Some leaves being put into boiling water, the infusion scarcely possessed the proper tea flavour. There were trees of Camphor, Sago, Cinnamon, Cloves & Pepper, the leaves of all, especially the Cloves & Cinnamon, had a delightful aromatic taste & smell. The Bread-fruit was growing in great luxuriance; the leaves from their great size & deep divisions were uncommonly handsome. Oh for the time, when I shall see it in its native Pacific isles. The Mango & Jack-fruit were likewise here; I did not before know their names.

The landscape about Bahia takes its character from these two most beautiful trees; as for the Mango I had no idea any tree could cast so black a shadow. They both bear to the evergreen vegetation of the Tropics the same ratio which laurels do to our English trees. In this zone these three latter, together with the Banana, Orange, Cabbage palm & Cocoa-nut tree, stand before all others (with the exception perhaps of the tree fern & some firs) in the beauty of their appearance; At the same time how remarkably they contribute to the subsistence of mankind: & in this double respect how far do they surpass those of Europe. The Tropics appear the natural birthplace of the human race; but the mind, like many of its fruits seems in a foreign clime to reach its greatest perfection.

26th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
During to day & yesterday there has been a strong breeze from the SW; the amount of evaporation which a current of air produces in these countries is very great & in consequence the comparative state of dryness of the road has been today very remarkable. After dinner I walked to the Bay & had a good view of the Organ mountains; I was much struck by the justness of one of Humboldt’s observations, that hills in a Tropical country seen from a distance are of a uniform blue tint, but that contrary to what generally is the case the outline is defined with the clearest edge. Few things give me so much pleasure as reading the Personal Narrative; I know not the reason why a thought which has passed through the mind, when we see it embodied in words, immediately assumes a more substantial & true air. In the same manner as when we meet in dramatic writings a character which we have known in life, it never fails to give pleasure.

25th May 1832

[Modern view from the top of Corcovado]

Rio de Janeiro
Walked to the city to procure some things which I wanted, then joined Earl & Derbyshire & we proceeded together to ascend the Cocovado. The path for the few first miles is the Aqueduct; the water rises at the base of the hill & is conducted along a sloping ridge to the city. At every corner alternate & most beautiful views were presented to us. At length we commenced ascending the steep sides, which are universally to the very summit clothed by a thick forest. The water-courses were ornamented by that most elegant of all vegetable forms, the tree fern. they were not of a large size, but in the vividness of the green lightness of the foliage, & in the beautiful curve of head, they were most classically admirable.

We soon gained the peak & beheld that view, which perhaps excepting those in Europe, is the most celebrated in the world. If we rank scenery according to the astonishment it produces, this most assuredly occupies the highest place, but if, as is more true, according to the picturesque effect, it falls far short of many in this neighbourhood.

Everybody has remarked that a landscape seen from an eminence loses much of its beauty, & although here the two elements are largely present, which perhaps are least injurious from this cause, viz. an extent of forest land & of open sea, yet the observation holds good. The Caucovado is about 2000 feet high, one side of it for nearly 1000 is so precipitous, that it might be plumbed with a lead, at the foot there is a large wood; nothing pleased me so much as the beautiful appearance this presented when seen so nearly vertically. It would lead one to suppose that the view from a Balloon would be exceedingly striking. Some years ago a poor insane young woman threw herself from this summit; in few places could a more horrible lovers leap be found. Our present host, Mr Bolga, was one of the first who found the corps dashed into pieces amongst the trees & rocks.

24th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Remained at home.

23rd May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Collected numerous animals on the sandy plain, which skirts the sea at the back of the Sugar loaf. The ground here being cleared of Cactuses & bushes is for many acres planted with Pineapples. They are cultivated in straight rows, & at a considerable distance apart. Thus does this fruit nursed with so much care in England here occupy land, which for all other purposes is entirely sterile & unproductive. The number of oranges which the trees in the orchards here bear, is quite astonishing. I saw one to day where I am sure there were lying on the ground sufficient to load several carts, besides that which the boughs were almost cracking with the burthen of the remaining fruit.

22nd May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
This has been my alternate day of rest, whilst working at the yesterdays collecting. I give up the evenings to reading & writing; in the latter, the number of friends to whom I am in debt keeps me in full employment. I have just finished 'Anson's Voyage'; my pleasure in reading such works is at least trebled by expecting to see some of the described places & in knowing a little about the sea.

21st May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Took a long scramble through the woods; the bottom is so thickly strewed over with dry sticks & leaves, that in walking one makes as much noise as a large quadruped would.

This is very disagreeable, as it puts all birds & animals to flight, likewise destroys that quietness which is the principal charm of these forests. This morning has been the fourth attempt to reach the sea by crossing a mere band of wood. Each time I followed a track made by the woodmen, but as soon as that ended I was utterly disabled by the thickets from proceeding even five yards further.

Tonight there has been a good deal of lightening, & the air very sultry. Therm. 75°. As far as I am able to judge, it would seem that in hot countries, the effect produced on the body increases in a greater ratio than the temperature; that is to say, if at present the thermometer was to rise to 85° the debilitating effects would be more than double, than if it was at 80°.

20th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Mr Derbyshire, who after leaving the Beagle has remained in the city, paid us a visit. In the evening, Earl (who is nearly well) & we two walked round the Botofogo bay.

18th & 19th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
These days have glided away very pleasantly, but with nothing particular to mark their passage: What will not habit do? I find my eye wanders idly from the Orange to the Banana & from it to the Cocoa Nut; whilst I take no more notice than if they were laurel or apple trees. It is very amusing to hear people complaining of the extreme cold; the depth of winter, however, brings not with it its usual & solitary silence. In the evening various species of frogs make an almost musical concert; this, as the night advances, is taken up in a higher key by a multitude of Cicadas & Crickets.

17th May 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Heavy rain; in the course of the day 1.6 inches fell, as the storm passed over the Caucorado, the sound produced by the drops pattering on the countless number of leaves was very singular. It might be heard for ¼ of a mile. I jumped up to see what it was; for it sounded like the rushing of a large body of water.