Removed all my things from shore & am now once again in the intricacy of my own corner writing this journal. It is something quite cheering to me to hear the old noises: the men forward singing; the sentinel pacing above my head & the little creaking of the furniture in the Cabin. &c.
We go to sea on next Tuesday, so that I have a nice short time for finishing the collections I made at Botofogo.
The very interesting & important news of the minority of Earl Grey on the reform was brought late last night by the Packet. The latest information is 20th of May. The distance of time & space from the events takes from me the keen interest for Politicks & Newspapers.
Went to the city to purchase several things; nothing can be more wearisome than shopping here. From the length of time the Brazilians detain you & the unreasonable price they at first ask, it is clear that they think both these precious things are equally valueless to an Englishman.
27th June 1832
Rio de JaneiroThis is my last day on shore, so I was determined it should not be an idle one. In the bay I found some fine Corallines; the examination of which occupied me during the whole day. Upon the whole I am tolerably contented with what I have done at Rio in Natural Hist: several important branches have been cut off: Geology is here uninteresting, Botany & Ornithology too well known. And the sea totally unproductive excepting in one place in Botofogo Bay — so that I have been reduced to the lower classes, which inhabit the dry land or fresh water. The number of species of Spiders which I have taken is something enormous. The time during these eleven weeks has passed so delightfully, that my feelings on leaving Botofogo are full of regret & gratitude.
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[Image? Brazilian wolf-spider]
26th June 1832
Rio de Janeiro
Rode to the city & went on board in order to make final arrangements for living in the ship after my long absence. I dread this process nearly as much as I did at Devonport. There have been several alterations in the ship. Amongst others we have 2 long nine-pounders; this will make us much more independent: several cases occurred during the last war where very small vessels terribly injured large ones, from having one great gun & keeping out of range of the other. I am sorry to see so many new faces on the deck, in the whale boat which took me ashore there was not one old-hand.
Rode to the city & went on board in order to make final arrangements for living in the ship after my long absence. I dread this process nearly as much as I did at Devonport. There have been several alterations in the ship. Amongst others we have 2 long nine-pounders; this will make us much more independent: several cases occurred during the last war where very small vessels terribly injured large ones, from having one great gun & keeping out of range of the other. I am sorry to see so many new faces on the deck, in the whale boat which took me ashore there was not one old-hand.
25th June 1832
Rio de Janeiro
In the evening took a farewell stroll to the Lagoa, & saw for the last time its waters stained purple by the last rays of twilight.
In the evening took a farewell stroll to the Lagoa, & saw for the last time its waters stained purple by the last rays of twilight.
24th June 1832
Rio de JaneiroDined with Mr Cairns; and as far as society goes the pleasantest evening since I left England. The Captain was there & has announced that the Beagle will sail this day week. In the evening my little friend Signorita Theresa, whom I find is only 6 years old, gained universal admiration by her dancing & acting.
23rd June 1832
Rio de JaneiroAgain I went to the forest, which so often has been proved so fruitful in all kinds of animals. It is in all probability the last time I shall ever wander in a Brazilian forest. I find the pleasure derived from such scenes increases, instead of as might have been expected, diminishing. To day instead of the rude tracks, I followed a brook, which in a narrow ravine flowed amongst the large huge granitic blocks. No art could depict so stupendous a scene; the decaying trunks of enormous trees scattered about, formed in many places natural bridges; beneath & around them the damp shade favoured the growth of the Fern & Palm trees. & looking upwards the trees in themselves lofty, thus seen, appeared of an almost incredible height. I soon found even by creeping, I could not penetrate the entangled mass of the living & dead vegetation. On coming out of the forest, the effect without any exaggeration is that of the full light of the sun breaking on a person who has just left a darkened room.
These woods belong to the government; & the house where I put up the horse is called Chacera o Macaco. My host the owners name is Antonio da Rocha, & to his hospitality I am indebted for so many delightful walks. Before going he showed me his garden, where to an European eye there was a singular union of plants. On one side a fine set of cabbages were growing & joining to these the long stubble of a rice field. This latter is scarcely to be distinguished from barley; but the ears are different, the seeds being further apart & therefore not having so compact a head.
After returning home in the evening the quiet neighbourhead of Botofogo was in unusual agitation in celebrating the eve of St Juan. Round the numerous bonfires there is a continual firing of rockets, guns, crackers, accompanied by shouts of "Viva St Juan". This is continued during the greater part of the night. I presume, not having had the luck to have had a gun-powder plot, the Brazilians thus celebrate an innocent saint.
20th, 21st & 22nd June 1832
Rio de Janeiro
During these days have been busily employed with various animals; chiefly however corallines: & my walks in consequence have not been extended far from the house.
During these days have been busily employed with various animals; chiefly however corallines: & my walks in consequence have not been extended far from the house.
19th June 1832
Rio de JaneiroSpent the day between the city & being on board. They are very busy in stowing provisions for sea. The ship looks in same inextricable confusion which she was in in Plymouth. The Warspite is making sweeps & boarding netting for us. Our complement of men is increased. Mr Forsyth is removed from the Flag ship into the Beagle & fills the place of poor little Musters.
17th & 18th June 1932
Rio de JaneiroTook my usual evening stroll to the bay; there to lie down on the coast & watch the setting sun gild the bare sides of the Sugar Loaf. Wickham & Chaffers paid me a visit.
King came & spent the day with me; we both on horseback started for the old forest. He shot some birds & as is generally the case I found many interesting animals of the lower classes. We found a little Palm tree, only a few inches in circumference, which I believe to be 305 years old. I judge of this from its number of rings, each of which I imagine marks a year. On the road home I overtook my old friend the Padre, returning with his dogs from the Gavia. He presented to me a magnificent specimen of the little once, which after five hours hunting, he had succeeded in shooting.
16th June 1832
Rio de JaneiroStarted early in the morning for Tijeuka to see the waterfalls. Neither the height or the body of water is anything very imposing; but they are rendered beautiful, by the dampness so increasing the vegetation, that the water appears to flow out of one forest & to be received & hidden in another below. On the road the scenery was very beautiful; especially the distant view of Rio. As a Sultan in a Seraglio I am becoming quite hardened to beauty. It is wearisome to be in a fresh rapture at every turn of the road. And as I have before said, you must be that or nothing.
15th June 1832
Rio de Janeiro
Collected some beautiful Corallines on the rocks at Botofogo bay. Mr Earl does not return to his lodgings here, but remains in town till the Beagle sails.
Collected some beautiful Corallines on the rocks at Botofogo bay. Mr Earl does not return to his lodgings here, but remains in town till the Beagle sails.
14th June 1832
Rio de JaneiroDined with Mr Aston; a very merry pleasant party; in the evening went with Mr Scott (the Attache) to hear a celebrated pianoforte player. He said Mozarts overtures were too easy. I suppose in the same proportion as the music which he played was too hard for me to enjoy.
13th June 1832
Rio de Janeiro
Dined with Mr Cairnes; who is the only merchant whom I have met with in society. The generality are little above shopkeepers. I spent an agreeable evening. Mr Price, a merchant from round the Horn & a passenger with Capt Waldegrave, gave a great deal of amusing & interesting information about the plains or what we better designate these the horse & cattle breeding countries. Mr Price married a Spanish lady who is since dead & has with him his two little daughters, Carlotta & Theresa — the Signoritas can speak nothing but Spanish; very pretty, & their motions most exceeding graceful; Theresa, the least about 8 years old, could not help dancing when she heard music, & with a rose in each hand as her partner, danced most exquisitely.
Dined with Mr Cairnes; who is the only merchant whom I have met with in society. The generality are little above shopkeepers. I spent an agreeable evening. Mr Price, a merchant from round the Horn & a passenger with Capt Waldegrave, gave a great deal of amusing & interesting information about the plains or what we better designate these the horse & cattle breeding countries. Mr Price married a Spanish lady who is since dead & has with him his two little daughters, Carlotta & Theresa — the Signoritas can speak nothing but Spanish; very pretty, & their motions most exceeding graceful; Theresa, the least about 8 years old, could not help dancing when she heard music, & with a rose in each hand as her partner, danced most exquisitely.
12th June 1832
Rio de JaneiroWorked in the morning at yesterdays produce, a forest is a gold mine to a Naturalist & yesterdays a very rich one. At one o’clock I went to the Admiral’s for a grand boat race. The first arriving of the launches, yawls, cutters & other large boats, was an imposing sight. It immediately made one understand how powerful a flotilla of such boats would be in war. The racing was rather too long; especially as the Beagle did not come off quite so triumphantly as might have been wished for. The evening passed away pleasantly, & by moonlight on the beach several foot races were got up between the officers & the crews of Captains gigs.
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