29th January 1834

St of Magellan
Came to an anchor in St Gregory Bay; these days we have beaten against strong Westerly gales. The tide here rises between 40 & 50 feet & runs at the rate of between 5 & 6 miles per hour. Who can wonder at the dread of the early navigators of these Straits? On shore there were the Toldos of a large tribe of Patagonian Indians. Went on shore with the Captain & met with a very kind reception. These Indians have such constant communication with the Sealers, that they are half civilized. They talk a good deal of Spanish & some English. Their appearance is however rather wild. They are all clothed in large mantles of the Guanaco, & their long hair streams about their faces. They resemble in their countenance the Indians with Rosas, but are much more painted; many with their whole faces red, & brought to a point on the chin, others black. One man was ringed & dotted with white like a Fuegian. The average height appeared to be more than six feet; the horses who carried these large men, were small & ill fitted for their work. When we returned to the boat, a great number of Indians got in; it was a very tedious & difficult operation to clear the boat; The Captain promised to take three on board, & every one seemed determined to be one of them. At last we reached the ship with our three guests. At tea they behaved quite like gentlemen, used a knife & fork & helped themselves with a spoon. Nothing was so much relished as Sugar. They felt the motion & were therefore landed.