3rd July 1832 - Comments on Slavery in Brazil

Rio de Janeiro
Went to the city. On landing, found the Palace Square crowded with people round the house of two money changers who were murdered yesterday evening in a more atrocious manner than usual. — It is quite fearful to hear what enormous crimes are daily committed & go unpunished. — If a slave murders his master, after being confined for some-time he then becomes a government one. — However great the charge may be against a rich man; he is certain in a short time to be free. — Everybody can here be bribed. — A man may become a sailor or a physician or any profession, if he can afford to pay sufficiently. — It has been gravely asserted by Brazilians that the only fault they found with the English laws was that they could not perceive rich respectable people had any advantage over the miserable & the poor.

The Brazilians, as far as I am able to judge, possess but a small share of those qualities which give dignity to mankind. Ignorant, cowardly, & indolent in the extreme; hospitable & good natured as long as it gives them no trouble; temperate, revengeful, but not quarrelsome; contented with themselves & their customs, they answer all remarks by asking "why cannot we do as our grandfathers before us did". — Their very appearance bespeaks their little elevation of character. — figures short, they soon become corpulent; and their faces possessing little expression, appear sunk between the shoulders. — The Monks differ for the worse in this latter respect; it requires little physiognomy to see plainly stamped persevering cunning, sensuality & pride. — One old man I always stop to look at, the only thing I ever saw like it, is Scoens Judas Iscariot.

All that I have said about the countenances of the priests, may be transferred to the voices of the older women. — Being surrounded by slaves, they become habituated to the harsh tones of command & the sneer of reproach. — Their manners are seldom softened by terms of endearment: they are born women, but die more like fiends. — It will be more readily believed, when I state that Mr Earl has seen the stump of the joint, which was wrenched off in the thumbscrew which is not unfrequently kept in the house.

The state of the enormous slave population must interest everyone who enters the Brazils. — Passing along the streets it is curious to observe the numbers of tribes which may be known by the different ornaments cut in the skin & the various expressions. — From this results the safety of the country. The slaves must communicate amongst themselves in Portugeese & are not in consequence united. — I cannot help believing they will ultimately be the rulers. I judge of it from their numbers, from their fine athletic figures, (especially contrasted with the Brazilians) proving they are in a congenial climate, & from clearly seeing their intellects have been much underrated. — they are the efficient workmen in all the necessary trades. — If the free blacks increase in numbers (as they must) & become discontented at not being equal to white men, the epoch of the general liberation would not be far distant.

I believe the slaves are happier than what they themselves expected to be or than people in England think they are. — I am afraid however there are many terrible exceptions. — The leading feature in their character appears to be wonderful spirits & cheerfulness, good nature & a "stout heart" mingled with a good deal of obstinacy. — I hope the day will come when they will assert their own rights & forget to avenge these wrongs.

2nd July 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Walked to Botofogo & called on the Admiral, Mr Aston & Mr Price. The latter I hope we shall again see at Valparaiso: He is afraid 17 years in Chili has quite unfitted him for any other country, & now on his road, he is sorry he ever attempted the change. It will make Valparaiso very pleasant if we are lucky enough to find him there.

1st July 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Attended divine service on board the Warspite: the ceremony was imposing; especially the preliminary parts such as the "God save the King", when 650 men took off their hats. — Seeing, when amongst foreigners, the strength & power of ones own Nation, gives a feeling of exultation which is not felt at home. — This ship would be in exactly the same state, if she was going to fight another battle of Trafalgar. — It is in the whole & its parts a most splendid piece of mechanism. — Can one wonder at pride in the Captain, when he knows that all & everything bends to his will? When standing on the Quarter deck, in the midst of such a crew, can there be imagined a more lofty situation?- After divisions (the men being all arranged along deck in the two watches), the head officers go the rounds of the whole ship. — I accompanied them, & thus well saw all the store-rooms &c. — Those who have never seen them will form no just idea of their cleanliness & extreme neatness. — After Church I was introduced to two officers who were fond of Nat: History: I was surprised to find in one of their cabins an aviary of Cape-birds & plants in frames. — I dined in the Wardroom & had a very agreeable party. — Coming from a ten-gun Brig into such comforts & luxuries, makes one a little envious. — So many corners unoccupied, appeared to my eyes. as great a waste as throwing good food overboard. — After the King’s health & "God save the King" the band played some beautiful music. — It was no common pleasure to hear the Overture to Figaro, Semiramides, Il Barbiere. After so long a fast, the appetite for Music becomes very keen.

Before I returned to the Beagle I saw all the hammocks carried down out of the nettings. — it is said that this rush of the men surprised Napoleon more than anything else on an English ship.

28th, 29th & 30th June 1832

Removed all my things from shore & am now once again in the intricacy of my own corner writing this journal. It is something quite cheering to me to hear the old noises: the men forward singing; the sentinel pacing above my head & the little creaking of the furniture in the Cabin. &c.

We go to sea on next Tuesday, so that I have a nice short time for finishing the collections I made at Botofogo.

The very interesting & important news of the minority of Earl Grey on the reform was brought late last night by the Packet. The latest information is 20th of May. The distance of time & space from the events takes from me the keen interest for Politicks & Newspapers.
Went to the city to purchase several things; nothing can be more wearisome than shopping here. From the length of time the Brazilians detain you & the unreasonable price they at first ask, it is clear that they think both these precious things are equally valueless to an Englishman.

27th June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
This is my last day on shore, so I was determined it should not be an idle one. In the bay I found some fine Corallines; the examination of which occupied me during the whole day. Upon the whole I am tolerably contented with what I have done at Rio in Natural Hist: several important branches have been cut off: Geology is here uninteresting, Botany & Ornithology too well known. And the sea totally unproductive excepting in one place in Botofogo Bay — so that I have been reduced to the lower classes, which inhabit the dry land or fresh water. The number of species of Spiders which I have taken is something enormous. The time during these eleven weeks has passed so delightfully, that my feelings on leaving Botofogo are full of regret & gratitude.
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[Image? Brazilian wolf-spider]

26th June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Rode to the city & went on board in order to make final arrangements for living in the ship after my long absence. I dread this process nearly as much as I did at Devonport. There have been several alterations in the ship. Amongst others we have 2 long nine-pounders; this will make us much more independent: several cases occurred during the last war where very small vessels terribly injured large ones, from having one great gun & keeping out of range of the other. I am sorry to see so many new faces on the deck, in the whale boat which took me ashore there was not one old-hand.

25th June 1832


Rio de Janeiro
In the evening took a farewell stroll to the Lagoa, & saw for the last time its waters stained purple by the last rays of twilight.

24th June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Dined with Mr Cairns; and as far as society goes the pleasantest evening since I left England. The Captain was there & has announced that the Beagle will sail this day week. In the evening my little friend Signorita Theresa, whom I find is only 6 years old, gained universal admiration by her dancing & acting.

23rd June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Again I went to the forest, which so often has been proved so fruitful in all kinds of animals. It is in all probability the last time I shall ever wander in a Brazilian forest. I find the pleasure derived from such scenes increases, instead of as might have been expected, diminishing. To day instead of the rude tracks, I followed a brook, which in a narrow ravine flowed amongst the large huge granitic blocks. No art could depict so stupendous a scene; the decaying trunks of enormous trees scattered about, formed in many places natural bridges; beneath & around them the damp shade favoured the growth of the Fern & Palm trees. & looking upwards the trees in themselves lofty, thus seen, appeared of an almost incredible height. I soon found even by creeping, I could not penetrate the entangled mass of the living & dead vegetation. On coming out of the forest, the effect without any exaggeration is that of the full light of the sun breaking on a person who has just left a darkened room.

These woods belong to the government; & the house where I put up the horse is called Chacera o Macaco. My host the owners name is Antonio da Rocha, & to his hospitality I am indebted for so many delightful walks. Before going he showed me his garden, where to an European eye there was a singular union of plants. On one side a fine set of cabbages were growing & joining to these the long stubble of a rice field. This latter is scarcely to be distinguished from barley; but the ears are different, the seeds being further apart & therefore not having so compact a head.

After returning home in the evening the quiet neighbourhead of Botofogo was in unusual agitation in celebrating the eve of St Juan. Round the numerous bonfires there is a continual firing of rockets, guns, crackers, accompanied by shouts of "Viva St Juan". This is continued during the greater part of the night. I presume, not having had the luck to have had a gun-powder plot, the Brazilians thus celebrate an innocent saint.

20th, 21st & 22nd June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
During these days have been busily employed with various animals; chiefly however corallines: & my walks in consequence have not been extended far from the house.

19th June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Spent the day between the city & being on board. They are very busy in stowing provisions for sea. The ship looks in same inextricable confusion which she was in in Plymouth. The Warspite is making sweeps & boarding netting for us. Our complement of men is increased. Mr Forsyth is removed from the Flag ship into the Beagle & fills the place of poor little Musters.

17th & 18th June 1932

Rio de Janeiro

Took my usual evening stroll to the bay; there to lie down on the coast & watch the setting sun gild the bare sides of the Sugar Loaf. Wickham & Chaffers paid me a visit.

King came & spent the day with me; we both on horseback started for the old forest. He shot some birds & as is generally the case I found many interesting animals of the lower classes. We found a little Palm tree, only a few inches in circumference, which I believe to be 305 years old. I judge of this from its number of rings, each of which I imagine marks a year. On the road home I overtook my old friend the Padre, returning with his dogs from the Gavia. He presented to me a magnificent specimen of the little once, which after five hours hunting, he had succeeded in shooting.

16th June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Started early in the morning for Tijeuka to see the waterfalls. Neither the height or the body of water is anything very imposing; but they are rendered beautiful, by the dampness so increasing the vegetation, that the water appears to flow out of one forest & to be received & hidden in another below. On the road the scenery was very beautiful; especially the distant view of Rio. As a Sultan in a Seraglio I am becoming quite hardened to beauty. It is wearisome to be in a fresh rapture at every turn of the road. And as I have before said, you must be that or nothing.

15th June 1832

Rio de Janeiro
Collected some beautiful Corallines on the rocks at Botofogo bay. Mr Earl does not return to his lodgings here, but remains in town till the Beagle sails.