Montevideo to the Bay of San Blas
Beautiful days, calm sea, & a fine breeze; what can the heart of man desire more?
Beautiful days, calm sea, & a fine breeze; what can the heart of man desire more?
28th November 1832
La Plata
A beautiful day; but fair wind of yesterday is now foul. We sail direct for the bay St. Blas, where we appointed to meet the Schooners by the 20th of this month. After meeting them we push directly onwards to Terra del Fuego, so that we may not loose any more of these precious long days. I thank our good fortune that the Mount is at last out of sight; & I sincerely trust we may not see its outline for several months to come.
A beautiful day; but fair wind of yesterday is now foul. We sail direct for the bay St. Blas, where we appointed to meet the Schooners by the 20th of this month. After meeting them we push directly onwards to Terra del Fuego, so that we may not loose any more of these precious long days. I thank our good fortune that the Mount is at last out of sight; & I sincerely trust we may not see its outline for several months to come.
27th November 1832
Montevideo The morning was dirty, but the afternoon was fair & we ran up the river about 30 miles in order to pump in fresh water. Anchored off the cliffs, called Santa Maria.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
Our arrangements and observations being satisfactorily completed, a sufficient quantity of provision on board to last eight months, at full allowance, and an extra supply of iron and coals for the forge, in case of any serious accident, the Beagle sailed from Monte Video; and, after filling water near Cape Jesu Maria,† hastened to look after her little assistants, left near Bahia Blanco.
In this trip we benefitted by the assistance of Mr. Robert N. Hamond, an early and much esteemed friend of mine, who was lent to the Beagle from H.M.S. Druid, of which he was then a mate.
† Above Monte Video, on the north shore.
26th November 1832
Montevideo The ship got under weigh at noon, but we anchored at night without leaving M: Video. The occasion of this delay caused a painful scene on board. During the morning the heat on shore was excessive, & far more intolerable than that of the Tropics. I fully felt the truth of what Mr Daniell has ascertained to be the fact; namely that the difference between the heat of the suns rays & temperature of the atmosphere increases as the latitude becomes higher & in a greater ratio than the Temp. decreases. Hence it happens that the thermometer would actually rise higher when exposed to the sun in London than under the Equator; also it proves how completely all the effects of climate depend on mean temperature. The day had been beautiful, but the barometer foretold a change, so that in a calm we anchored & struck our top gallant masts. It was not in vain, a little after 10 o’clock the squall struck us & it blew heavily all night.
25th November 1832
Montevideo
Rode with Mr Parry to Las Pietras; a pretty village so called from some rocks of a singular shape. One calls a village pretty in this country, if it possesses a dozen fig trees & is situated a hundred feet above the general level.
Rode with Mr Parry to Las Pietras; a pretty village so called from some rocks of a singular shape. One calls a village pretty in this country, if it possesses a dozen fig trees & is situated a hundred feet above the general level.
23rd November 1832
MontevideoAt night there was a grand ball given in order to celebrate the reestablishment of the President. It was a much gayer scene than I should have thought this place could have produced. The desire which the inhabitants have on such occasions of appearing splendidly dressed is excessive: & to gratify it the ladies will spare no sacrifices. The music was in very slow time & the dancing, although most formal, possessed much gracefulness. The ball was given in the Theatre; nothing surprised me so much as the arrangements of the house; every part not actually occupied by the dancers was entirely open to the lowest classes of Society, so that all the passages to the boxes, back parts of the pitt, was filled by any people who liked to look on. And nobody ever seemed even to imagine the possibility of disorderly conduct on their parts. How different are the habits of Englishmen, on such Jubilee nights!
22nd November 1832
Montevideo Rode with Mr Hamond to the Rio St Lucia, the distance is about 12 miles & the path lies over an undulating plain of turf. On our return we were obliged to go some miles round to avoid one of the great beds of thistles. These are quite impassible, as they are armed with long prickles, & grow close together to the height of six feet. Riding is the only source of enjoyment in this country.
21st November 1832
MontevideoAll day long provisions & stores are hoisting in; never, without excepting Plymouth, have I seen the ship, even the quarter deck crowded with all sorts of things. I am glad of it, for I am impatient to be again at sea. I suspect however before our return there will oftener be occassion for patience than for the contrary extreme.
20th November 1832
Montevideo Went out collecting on the Mount. In the course of my walk I came quite close to two of the great lizards of this country. From the nose to end of tail the length must have been at least 3 feet.
18th November 1832
Montevideo
After divine service on board I took a quiet ride over the open plains which border the river.
After divine service on board I took a quiet ride over the open plains which border the river.
17th November 1832
MontevideoBoisterous weather; glad should I be if the day for taking an everlasting farewell of the Rio Plata was near at hand.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
It is not prudent for any vessel drawing more than ten feet water to remain under sail in this part of the river, while it is dark, unless a good pilot is on board; and even the best practical experience is not always a sure guide, so uncertain and fluctuating are the currents and depths of water. There are a few simple precautions, useful in such circumstances, of which I may be excused for reminding young sailors. A ground-log ought to be hove frequently, and compared with a common log; there should be a leadsman in each chains, one, at least, of whom should sound constantly: the deep-sea lead ought to be used now and then, even in shallow water, as a check upon the hand-lead: from the vessel's draught of water to two fathoms more than that depth, the hand-line should be marked to feet, by alternate marks of dark-coloured hair and small line: strong lanterns should be suspended under the chain-wales, near the water, but close to the ship's side; while a careful person ought to superintend the leadsman, and occasionally take a line into his own hand, so that by 'plumbing' the bottom himself he may ascertain how far reliance is to be placed upon the leadsman's opinion.
It is not prudent for any vessel drawing more than ten feet water to remain under sail in this part of the river, while it is dark, unless a good pilot is on board; and even the best practical experience is not always a sure guide, so uncertain and fluctuating are the currents and depths of water. There are a few simple precautions, useful in such circumstances, of which I may be excused for reminding young sailors. A ground-log ought to be hove frequently, and compared with a common log; there should be a leadsman in each chains, one, at least, of whom should sound constantly: the deep-sea lead ought to be used now and then, even in shallow water, as a check upon the hand-lead: from the vessel's draught of water to two fathoms more than that depth, the hand-line should be marked to feet, by alternate marks of dark-coloured hair and small line: strong lanterns should be suspended under the chain-wales, near the water, but close to the ship's side; while a careful person ought to superintend the leadsman, and occasionally take a line into his own hand, so that by 'plumbing' the bottom himself he may ascertain how far reliance is to be placed upon the leadsman's opinion.
In the Plata, as well as in many other pilot-waters, to feel the ground thus is often more useful than knowing the precise depth of water, or even the colour, or nature, of the bottom.
16th November 1832
Montevideo The dilatory method of doing business in this place again detained me all morning; in the evening enjoyed with Hamond a delightful gallop over the grassy plains. We called on our way back on a Spanish family. Here I first saw the well known & universal custom of the young ladies giving to any gentlemen present a rose; the Signoritas make their little present with much grace & elegance. The Signora at the same time, tells you with due formality, to consider the house as your own.
14th November 1832
[Map from AboutDarwin.com]This morning we entered the harbor at noon; after having fairly conquered as foul a wind as ever blew. I received letters dated July 25, August 15th & 18th.
12th & 13th November 1832
Montevideo
The wind continues dead in our teeth & although carrying on night & day we get on very slowly. In the evening it blew hard & we dropped the anchor.
The wind continues dead in our teeth & although carrying on night & day we get on very slowly. In the evening it blew hard & we dropped the anchor.
11th November 1832
River Plate
The wind is unfavourable & we do not make much progress. Every day is now of consequence, as it is one out of the summer.
10th November 1832
Buenos Aires
Breakfasted with Mr Gore & at noon went on board: in the evening made sail for Monte Video; but as the night was dirty came to an anchor.
Breakfasted with Mr Gore & at noon went on board: in the evening made sail for Monte Video; but as the night was dirty came to an anchor.
.
Captain Fitzroy's Journal:
...remained in the outer roadstead, off Buenos Ayres, until the 10th of November. We then employed three days in verifying the positions of some banks, as laid down in Heywood's and other charts, and returned to Monte Video on the 14th.
.
Syms Covington’s Journal:
The ships company having (had) their liberty, we left Buenos Ayres November 10th for Monte Video, where we arrived the 14th of the same month.
9th November 1832
Buenos Aires
Called with Capt. FitzRoy on Donna Clara or Mrs Clarke. The history of this woman is most strange. She was originally a handsome young woman, transported for some atrocious crime. On board the convict ship on its passage outwards, she lived with the Captain: some time before coming to the Latitude of Buenos Ayres she planned with the rest of the convict women to murder all on board excepting a few sailors. She with her own hands killed the Captain, & by the help of a few sailors brought the ship into Buenos Ayres. After this she married a man of considerable property & now inherits it. Everybody seems to have forgotten her crimes, from the extraordinary labours she underwent in nursing our soldiers after the disastrous attempt (our flags are now in the Cathedral) to take this city. Mrs Clarke is now an old decrepid woman: with a masculine face, & evidently even yet a most ferocious mind. Her commonest expressions are "I would hang them all Sir", "I would kill him Sir," for smaller offences, "I would cut their fingers off". The worthy old lady looks as if she would rather do it, than say so.
Called with Capt. FitzRoy on Donna Clara or Mrs Clarke. The history of this woman is most strange. She was originally a handsome young woman, transported for some atrocious crime. On board the convict ship on its passage outwards, she lived with the Captain: some time before coming to the Latitude of Buenos Ayres she planned with the rest of the convict women to murder all on board excepting a few sailors. She with her own hands killed the Captain, & by the help of a few sailors brought the ship into Buenos Ayres. After this she married a man of considerable property & now inherits it. Everybody seems to have forgotten her crimes, from the extraordinary labours she underwent in nursing our soldiers after the disastrous attempt (our flags are now in the Cathedral) to take this city. Mrs Clarke is now an old decrepid woman: with a masculine face, & evidently even yet a most ferocious mind. Her commonest expressions are "I would hang them all Sir", "I would kill him Sir," for smaller offences, "I would cut their fingers off". The worthy old lady looks as if she would rather do it, than say so.
8th November 1832
Buenos AiresIn the evening went to the Theatre; I did not understand one word; yet, & which I should think was different from other languages, it sounded most distinct & energetic. We saw here the universal custom amongst the Spaniards of separating the women from the men. In the boxes they are together, but the pit is full of men & the gallery of women. The price for the boxes is about 14 pence or two paper dollars; for the rest of the house it is only one, or seven pence: of English money.
7th November 1832
Buenos Aires
We expected to have gone on board to day, but from bad weather & other causes the sailing of the Beagle has been deferred for a few days. In the evening Capt. FitzRoy & myself dined at Mr Gores, the English Charge d'affaires. We had a very pleasant evening: we met there Colonel Harcourt Vernon, one of the most rare instances of a tourist leaving the beaten tracks of Europe. He has already travelled in Egypt & having a strong wish to see Tropical scenery came to Rio de Janeiro. And as he says, one walk amidst the glories of Brazil well repays the trouble of crossing the Atlantic. Colonel Vernon is now going to undertake a most laborious journey, namely to cross the Pampas to Lima, from whence to Mexico & so home.
We expected to have gone on board to day, but from bad weather & other causes the sailing of the Beagle has been deferred for a few days. In the evening Capt. FitzRoy & myself dined at Mr Gores, the English Charge d'affaires. We had a very pleasant evening: we met there Colonel Harcourt Vernon, one of the most rare instances of a tourist leaving the beaten tracks of Europe. He has already travelled in Egypt & having a strong wish to see Tropical scenery came to Rio de Janeiro. And as he says, one walk amidst the glories of Brazil well repays the trouble of crossing the Atlantic. Colonel Vernon is now going to undertake a most laborious journey, namely to cross the Pampas to Lima, from whence to Mexico & so home.
6th November 1832
Buenos AiresSpent the day in shopping & in gaining information relative to the geology of the country. I trust when the Beagle returns for the winter to the Rio Plata I shall be able to make some long excursions in this un-picturesque but curious country. Buenos Ayres is an excellent place for making purchases; there are many shops kept by Englishmen & full of English goods. Indeed the whole town has more of an European look than any I have seen in S. America. One is called back to the true locality, both by the Gauchos riding through the streets with their gay coloured Ponchos & by the dress of the Spanish ladies. This latter, although not differing much from an English one, is most elegant & simple. In the hair (which is beautifully arranged) they wear an enormous comb; from this a large silk shawl folds round the upper part of the body. Their walk is most graceful, & although often disappointed, one never saw one of their charming backs without crying out, "how beautiful she must be".
5th November 1832
Buenos AiresRode about 6 leagues into the camp to an English Estancia. The country is very level & from in places from Willows & Poplars being planted by the ditches much resembled Cambridgeshire. Generally it is open & consists either of bright green turf or large tracts of a very tall Sow-thistle (8 or 9 feet high).
Even the very roads were burrowed by the Viscache. This animal is nocturnal in its habits; in structure it is allied to the Cavies, having gnawing teeth & only three toes to its hind legs; it differs in having a tail. The holes made by this animal yearly cause the death of many of the Gauchos. As Head mentions, every burrow is tenanted by a small owl, who, as you ride past, most gravely stares at you.
4th November 1832
Buenos AyresWalked into several of the Churches & admired the brilliancy of the decorations for which the city is celebrated. It is impossible not to respect the fervour which appears to reign during the Catholic service as compared with the Protestant. The effect is heightened by the equality of all ranks. The Spanish Lady with her brilliant shawl is kneels by the side of her black servant in the open aisle.
I visited the Museum, which is attached to the only remaining convent; although esteemed as second to none by the inhabitants it is very poor. In the evening went out riding with Hamond; we saw the first starting of a troop of waggons for Mendoza. Changing the bullocks, they travel day & night, but even with this it takes 50 days. These waggons are very narrow & long, they are thatched with reeds & stand on wheels, the diameter of which is 10 feet. They are drawn by 6 bullocks, which are urged on by a goad at least twenty feet long. it is suspended within the roof, so that it can be easily used. The point is sharp & for the intermediate bullocks a small point projects downwards. For the wheel bullocks a short goad is kept in the waggon. All this apparatus at first looks like implements of war.
3rd November 1832
Buenos AyresThe city of Buenos Ayres is large, & I should think one of the most regular in the world. Every street is at right angles to the one it crosses; so that all the houses are collected into solid squares called "quadras". On the other hand the houses themselves are like our squares, all the rooms opening into a neat little court. They are generally only one story high, with flat roofs; which are fitted with seats & are much frequented by the inhabitants in Summer. In centre of the town is the Plaza, where all the public offices, Fortress, Cathedral &c are. It was here that the old Viceroys lived, before the revolution. The general assemblage of buildings possesses considerable architectural beauty, although none individually do so. In the evening went out riding with Hammond & in vain tried to reach the camp; in England any one would pronounce the roads quite impassible; but the bullock waggons do contrive to crawl slowly on, a man however generally goes ahead to survey which is the best part to be attempted. I do not suppose they travel one mile per hour, & yet with this the bullocks are much jaded: it is a great mistake to imagine with the improved roads and increased velocity of travelling that in the same proportion the cruelty towards the animals becomes greater.
For some miles round the town the country is enclosed by ditches & hedges of Agave or Aloes with Fennel. One ride is sufficient to account for the horror which the few English gentlemen who reside here express for Buenos Ayres: In our ride we passed the public place for slaughtering the cattle: the beasts were all lassoed in the Corral; so that there was no skill shown, the only thing which surprised me is the wonderful strength of horses compared to bullocks. After being caught round the horns, one horse dragged them to any distance; the poor beast after vainly in its efforts ploughing up the ground to resist the force, would dash at full speed to one side; the horse immediately turns to receive the shock, & stands so firmly as almost to throw the bullock down when he comes to the end of the Lasso. When brought to the spot for killing, the matador with great caution cuts the hamstrings & then being disabled sticks them; it is a horrible sight: the ground is made of bones, & the men, horses & mud are stained by blood.
2nd November 1832
Buenos AyresPassing the Guard-ship (who this time treated us with greater respect) we anchored at noon in the outer roads. The boats were lowered & a large party of officers went on shore; the landing is very awkward; from the shoalness of the water a cart is obliged to come a long way out to meet the boat. We immediately went out riding: there is no way of enjoying the shore so throughily as on horseback: after being for some months in a ship, the mere prospect of living on dry land is very pleasant, & we were all accordingly in high spirits. It is from this cause, I suppose, that most Foreigners believe that English sailors are all more or less mad.
Syms Covington’s Journal:
Buenos Ayres, about 160 miles southward of Monte Video and IS opposite the Río del la Plata. The city is large and populous, AND is situated on a bank, which extends each way beyond the city a considerable distance. It is very inconvenient for landing, as there is no mole or levy, AND the water being very shallow, people are taken from their boats, when landing, in carts on very high wheels, which carts are in constant attendance for a trifling sum. THE buildings most worthy of notice are the churches, etc.
Buenos Ayres, about 160 miles southward of Monte Video and IS opposite the Río del la Plata. The city is large and populous, AND is situated on a bank, which extends each way beyond the city a considerable distance. It is very inconvenient for landing, as there is no mole or levy, AND the water being very shallow, people are taken from their boats, when landing, in carts on very high wheels, which carts are in constant attendance for a trifling sum. THE buildings most worthy of notice are the churches, etc.
01 November 1832
Buenos Ayres
A calm delightful day. I know not the reason why such days always lead the mind to think of England and home. It would seem as if the serenity of the air allowed the thoughts with greater ease to pass & repass the long interval.
A calm delightful day. I know not the reason why such days always lead the mind to think of England and home. It would seem as if the serenity of the air allowed the thoughts with greater ease to pass & repass the long interval.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
Desirous of communicating with the Government at Buenos Ayres, and measuring the difference of meridians between that city and Monte Video, we weighed anchor on the 31st [Oct], proceeded up the river, and remained in the outer roadstead, off Buenos Ayres, until the 10th of November.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)