Maldonado
Usual quiet occupations; one days collecting & the next arranging.
Usual quiet occupations; one days collecting & the next arranging.
28th & 29th May 1833
MaldonadoCaptain FitzRoy hired a small Schooner to go to the Rio Negro to bring Mr Wickham in order that he might take command of our Schooner. She arrived yesterday, & to day Mr King, who came with Mr Wickham paid me a visit. They are heartily tired of their little vessels & are again as glad to see the Beagle as every one in her is to see them. The weather has generally been very fine; but the gale of the 12th of Jany reached them. It appears however to have been miserable work & more than sufficiently dangerous: from the smallness of the vessels, it was scarcely possible to keep anything dry. To possess a dry shirt or bed was an unusual luxury. In addition to these discomforts, Mr Wickham & some of the others constantly suffered from sea-sickness. Mr Stokes & Mr Usborne (who has taken Mr Wickhams place) will continue to work in the neighbourhead of the Rio Negro.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
Hove the schooner 'keel out,' for a few hours, and righted her again at dark. While standing on her keel, examining the state of her copper and planking, I saw a sail in the offing, which was soon made out to be the Constitucion, and just after we righted the schooner Lieut. Wickham came alongside. He brought good tidings — without drawback — and those who know what it is to feel anxiety for the safety of friends whose lives are risked by their willingness to follow up the plans of their commanding officer — however critical those plans may be — will understand my sensations that night.
Hove the schooner 'keel out,' for a few hours, and righted her again at dark. While standing on her keel, examining the state of her copper and planking, I saw a sail in the offing, which was soon made out to be the Constitucion, and just after we righted the schooner Lieut. Wickham came alongside. He brought good tidings — without drawback — and those who know what it is to feel anxiety for the safety of friends whose lives are risked by their willingness to follow up the plans of their commanding officer — however critical those plans may be — will understand my sensations that night.
25th to 27th May 1833
Maldonado
Took a long walk to the Laguna del Potrero; my principal object at present is birds, of which there are a great number of very beautiful ones. The weather is most delightful. Temp, in room about 60°.
Took a long walk to the Laguna del Potrero; my principal object at present is birds, of which there are a great number of very beautiful ones. The weather is most delightful. Temp, in room about 60°.
24th May 1833
Maldonado
The Beagle returned from M. Video. Mr Hammond is discharged into the Pylades & ultimately intends leaving the service.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
Preparations were commenced for heaving the schooner down to copper her. We hauled her alongside.
The Beagle returned from M. Video. Mr Hammond is discharged into the Pylades & ultimately intends leaving the service.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
Preparations were commenced for heaving the schooner down to copper her. We hauled her alongside.
21st to 23rd May 1833
Maldonado
Employed in arranging the fruits of my excursion, & in collecting in the neighbourhood of the Town.
Employed in arranging the fruits of my excursion, & in collecting in the neighbourhood of the Town.
20th May 1833
Maldonado We arrived there in the afternoon. I am well satisfied with this little excursion, which besides an outline of the geology, has given me a very good opportunity of seeing both the country & its wild Gaucho inhabitants. The Beagle on the 18th brought a party of working hands for the Schooner, but did not stay more than hour. She left letters for me. one from home, dated Jan. 13th.
19th May 1833
Sierra de las AnimasI got up early to ascend the Sierra de las Animas. This & Pan de Azucar are well known land-marks in navigating the Plata; I should guess their height to be about 8 or 900 feet. The scenery, by the aid of the rising sun almost looked pretty. From the top there was a very extensive view. To the West over a very flat country to the Mount at M. Video, & to the East over the mamillated plains of Maldonado.
On the summit there were several small heaps of stones; which evidently had been there for many years, my companion, an inhabitant of the place, declared it was work of the Indians in the old times. They were like, although on a smaller scale, the heaps so common in the Welsh Mountains: How universal is the desire of Man to show he has ascended the highest points in every country. In the evening I again partook & suffered from the overpowering hospitality in the house of Don Fran Pimiento: & the next morning started for Maldonado.
18th May 1833
Maldonado In the morning we rode to the house of Sebastian de Pimiento; a relation of Gonzales & a fine old Cavallero. His house was better furnished than any I had seen — this probably was owing to the presence of some pretty Signoritas, his daughters. These same young ladies are universally quite out of character with the rest of the house. They are dressed exceedingly well; & their whole appearance & manner is very lady-like. Yet with all this, as in Pimiento's house, they superintend all the cooking & perform some of the lowest menial offices. One of the greatest inconveniences in the manners of these people, is the quantity you are obliged to eat. Time after time they pile heaps of meat on your plate; having eat a great deal too much & having skilfully arranged what is left so as to make as little show as possible, a charming Signorita will perhaps present you with choice piece from her own plate with her own fork; this you must eat, let the consequence be what it may, for it is a high compliment. Oh the difficulty of smiling sweet thanks, with the horrid & vast mouthful in view!
16th & 17th May 1833
Las Minas againReturned by a route rather different, & slept at a house, 4 leagues from Las Minas. Yesterday's rain had so filled the rivers, that they were difficult to be crossed. This is a great disadvantage in a semi-civilized country that travelling is quite dependant on the weather. We again passed through Las Minas, & then proceeded across some low wild mountains to a very hospitable house. The formation is all Slate & a few years ago a gold mine was discovered & here worked; but very small quantities having been procured, the mine works have ceased. I believe this & its neighbourhead is the only place where gold has been found in the Banda Oriental.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
On the 17th, having engaged men and purchased plank, copper, provisions and other necessaries, we sailed from Monte Video, and next morning anchored in Maldonado. As soon as a part of our cargo was landed — all that was then wanted by the working party on Gorriti, under Mr. Chaffers — we proceeded up the river to fill water, anchored again off Monte Video for a short time, and returned to our future consort at Gorriti.
On the 17th, having engaged men and purchased plank, copper, provisions and other necessaries, we sailed from Monte Video, and next morning anchored in Maldonado. As soon as a part of our cargo was landed — all that was then wanted by the working party on Gorriti, under Mr. Chaffers — we proceeded up the river to fill water, anchored again off Monte Video for a short time, and returned to our future consort at Gorriti.
15th May 1833
Polanco Bad weather; all the other days have been fine so that I have no cause to complain: we remained all day in the house & it was to me sufficiently tedious, as I had nothing to do but watch the rain the Gauchos smoking their cigars.
14th May 1833
Polanco
The country continues very much the same; it was about the Polanco more level & the hills less steep & there were a few trees about the rivers, chiefly of the willow kind. In the evening I saw rather a curious scene: an old Paraguay man, who had been our guide in the morning, got very drunk, & being offended at a man present was drawing his knife under his poncho; a Gaucho who sat by him knew what he was about & stopped him, & took his knife from him. After this, to frighten the old gentleman, the others in jest pretended to stab him. The method with which they dashed across the room, struck him upon the heart & then sprang out of the door, showed it to be the result of practice, at least in them. The only manner of fighting amongst the Gauchos is thus stabbing each other; & this little scene showed me very plainly the way in which it takes place. I wear a large clasp-knife, in the manner of sailors fastened by a string round my neck; I had often noticed that the Gauchos seemed to think this practice of confining the knife very strange.
The country continues very much the same; it was about the Polanco more level & the hills less steep & there were a few trees about the rivers, chiefly of the willow kind. In the evening I saw rather a curious scene: an old Paraguay man, who had been our guide in the morning, got very drunk, & being offended at a man present was drawing his knife under his poncho; a Gaucho who sat by him knew what he was about & stopped him, & took his knife from him. After this, to frighten the old gentleman, the others in jest pretended to stab him. The method with which they dashed across the room, struck him upon the heart & then sprang out of the door, showed it to be the result of practice, at least in them. The only manner of fighting amongst the Gauchos is thus stabbing each other; & this little scene showed me very plainly the way in which it takes place. I wear a large clasp-knife, in the manner of sailors fastened by a string round my neck; I had often noticed that the Gauchos seemed to think this practice of confining the knife very strange.
13th May 1833
Pulperia
In the evening arrived at a Pulperia, north of the Rio Polanco. It was my furthest point: its distance in a straight line from Maldonado is not much more than 70 miles; but this distance was much lengthened by our route. I here saw what I wanted in the geology & in the morning returned to near our former sleeping place.
In the evening arrived at a Pulperia, north of the Rio Polanco. It was my furthest point: its distance in a straight line from Maldonado is not much more than 70 miles; but this distance was much lengthened by our route. I here saw what I wanted in the geology & in the morning returned to near our former sleeping place.
12th May 1833
Las Minas
We crossed the Rio Marmaraga & proceeded to the Tapes; where a widow woman, a friend of Gonzales gave us a most hospitable reception. The above rivers, ultimately flow into the R. Grande & thus belong to a different system from the others which we crossed. On the road Morante practised with success a method of catching partridges which I had often heard of but never seen, it requires a long stick, at the end of which there is a running noose, made of the stem of an Ostriches feather. As soon as a partridge is seen, & they are wonderfully numerous, the man with the stick rides in a circle or spire round & round the bird, gradually coming nearer & nearer; the partridge not knowing which way to run at last squats to conceal itself; the noose is then quietly put over its head & the bird secured by a jerk, in this manner a boy sometimes catches 30 or 40 in one day.
We crossed the Rio Marmaraga & proceeded to the Tapes; where a widow woman, a friend of Gonzales gave us a most hospitable reception. The above rivers, ultimately flow into the R. Grande & thus belong to a different system from the others which we crossed. On the road Morante practised with success a method of catching partridges which I had often heard of but never seen, it requires a long stick, at the end of which there is a running noose, made of the stem of an Ostriches feather. As soon as a partridge is seen, & they are wonderfully numerous, the man with the stick rides in a circle or spire round & round the bird, gradually coming nearer & nearer; the partridge not knowing which way to run at last squats to conceal itself; the noose is then quietly put over its head & the bird secured by a jerk, in this manner a boy sometimes catches 30 or 40 in one day.
11th May 1833
Las MinasIn the morning we pursued rather a rambling course; as I was examining several beds of marble. We crossed some fine plains abounding with cattle, here also were very many Ostriches. I saw several flocks of between 20 & 30. When seen on the brow of a hill against the clear sky they form a fine spectacle. Some of them are very tame; if, after approaching close, you suddenly gallop in pursuit, it is beautiful to see them, as a sailor would express it, "up with their helm" & make all sail, by expanding their wings right down the wind. At night we came to the house of Don Juan Fuentes, a very rich man, but a stranger to both my companions. Upon arriving we entered the room where the Signora and Signoritas were sitting, & after talking on indifferent subjects (which I observe is always the formula) for a few minutes; permission was asked to pass the night there. As a matter of course this is granted to all strangers; & a room allotted to us. We then unsaddle our horses & bring the recon's &c into the room, this latter was not so good as cowshed, but it contained beds, & for bed-clothes the cloths belonging to the recon are used.
Shortly after our arrival one of the great herds of cattle was driven in. The cattle having so much space to wander over are very wild & it is necessary several times in the week to drive the herd into a Corral or enclosure of stakes, for the night. & thus accustom them to one central place. About a dozen Gauchos on horseback drove them in & near to the house separated a few for the purpose of killing them. This afforded a very animated chace, for the cattle run nearly as fast as a horse, & the poor beasts know full well the fatal Lasso. After seeing such a herd & such a number of horses the miserable house of Don Juan was curious. The floor is hardened mud; there are no glass windows, a few of the roughest chairs & stools & two small tables was all the furniture in the room. For supper there was a huge pile of roasted meat & another boiled with some pumpkin, in the centre was a mug of cold water, there were scarcely forks, plates or spoons sufficient, & every thing, table-cloth &c filthily dirty. there was no bread, salt, or vegetables, or anything more than water to drink; & this the house of a large landed proprietor.
The evening was spent in smoking & with a little impromptu singing accompanied by the Guitar. All the women remained huddled up in one corner & did not sup with the men. And such are the luxuries which wealth here purchases!
10th May 1833
Las MinasDuring this days ride, there was not much interest, excepting from the novelty of this manner of travelling. — The country is the much the same; more uneven & hilly; a sort of miniature alpine district; the whole surface, however with the exception of the bare rock is covered with a short green turf. — And this indeed is the picture of all which I saw: — it sounds very delightful riding over so much turf; but positively I at last became so tired of the endless green hills that I thought with pleasure of iron-shod horses & dusty roads. It is very rare to meet a single individual, and we did not till close to Las Minas. This night we stopped at a Pulperia or drinking shop, which also sells a few other things. The evening was very tiresome as we were obliged to remain the whole time amongst a set of drinking strangers before the counter & with scarcely a place to sit down. This was however the only night, in which we did not sleep at private houses.
During the evening a great number of young Gauchos came in to drink spirits & smoke cigars. They are a singularly striking looking set of men; generally tall, very handsome, but with a most proud, dissolute expression. They wear their moustachios & long black hair curling down their necks. With their bright coloured robes; great spurs clanking on their heels & a knife, stuck (& often used) as a dagger at their waist, they look a very different race of men from our working countrymen. Their politeness is excessive, they never drink their spirits, without expecting you to taste it; but as they make their exceedingly good bow, they seem quite ready, if occasion offered, to cut your throat at the same time.
.
The town of Las Minas is considerably smaller than Maldonado, & of the usual symetrical figure. it is seated in the plain of the Rio St. Francisco, & is surrounded on all sides by the low rocky mountains. It has rather a pretty appearance, with its church in the middle. The outskirting houses all arise out of the plain, like isolated beings, without the usual (to our eyes) accompaniment of a garden or court. This is the case with all the houses in the country, & gives to them an unsociable appearance. —
The town of Las Minas is considerably smaller than Maldonado, & of the usual symetrical figure. it is seated in the plain of the Rio St. Francisco, & is surrounded on all sides by the low rocky mountains. It has rather a pretty appearance, with its church in the middle. The outskirting houses all arise out of the plain, like isolated beings, without the usual (to our eyes) accompaniment of a garden or court. This is the case with all the houses in the country, & gives to them an unsociable appearance. —
9th May 1833
MaldonadoThe weather being fine I persuaded my two guides & companions to start on our ride. — Don Francisco Gonzales, & Morante, a sort of servant of his, were both well armed, & having plenty of friends & relations in the country were just the people for my purpose. We drove before us a troop of fresh horses; a very luxurious way of travelling as there is then no danger of having a tired or lame one. — I agreed to pay 2 dollars a day (about 8s..6d) & all expences on the road. — Such is the hospitality in this country, that the latter for 12 days only cost me about 16 dollars. — As the rivers were very full we only went a short distance; a little beyond the head of the Laguna del Potrero. I was inclined to think my guides took too much precaution with their pistols & sabres; but the first bit of news we heard on the road was, that the day before a traveller to M: Video had been found, with his throat cut, lying dead on the road. — it happened close to a cross, a record of a former murder.
.
We dined at a Pulperia, where there were present many Gauchos (this name only means "countrymen" & those who dress in this manner & lead their life). — I here found out I possessed two or three things which created unbounded astonishment. — Principally a small pocket compass. — in every house, I entered I was asked to show its powers, & by its aid told the direction of various places. — This excited the liveliest admiration, that I a perfect stranger should know the road (for direction & road is synonimous in this open country) to places where I had never been. — At one house, a young woman, who was ill sent to entreat me to come to her room & show her the compass. If their surprise was great, mine was much greater to find such ignorance; & this amongst people, who possess their thousands of cattle & "estancia's" of great extent. — It can only be accounted for by the circumstance that this retired part of the country has seldom been visited by foreigners. I was asked whether the earth or sun moved; whether it was hotter or colder to the North; where Spain was & many more such questions. — Most of the inhabitants have an indistinct idea, that England, London, N. America are all the same place; the better informed well know that England & N: America are separate countries close together; but that England is a large town in London. — I had in my pocket some promethians, which I ignited by biting them between my teeth; to see this the whole family was collected; at one place and I was once offered a dollar for a single one. — My washing my face in the morning caused at Las Minas much speculation; at Las Minas a very superior tradesman closely cross-questioned me about so singular a practice; & likewise why on board we wore our beards, for he had heard from my guides that we did so. — He eyed me with much suspicion; perhaps he had heard of ablutions in the Mahomedan religion; knowing me to be a Heretic; perhaps probably he came to the conclusion that all Heretics are Turks. — It is the universal custom to ask for a nights lodging at the first convenient house. — The general astonishment at the compass &c &c and other things was to a certain degree advantageous, as with that & the long stories my guides told of my breaking stones, knowing venemous from harmless snakes, collecting insects &c I paid them for their hospitality. — Being able to talk very little Spanish, I was looked at with much pity, wonder & a great deal of kindness. — Some few however, I think, gave me the credit of having a good deal of the Dousterswivel* about me. — I am writing as if I was had been amongst the inhabitants of central Africa. Banda Oriental would not be flattered by the comparison, but such was my feeling when amongst them. — (C) We slept at a friend of Gonzales; & in the morning proceeded on to the town of Las Minas.
We dined at a Pulperia, where there were present many Gauchos (this name only means "countrymen" & those who dress in this manner & lead their life). — I here found out I possessed two or three things which created unbounded astonishment. — Principally a small pocket compass. — in every house, I entered I was asked to show its powers, & by its aid told the direction of various places. — This excited the liveliest admiration, that I a perfect stranger should know the road (for direction & road is synonimous in this open country) to places where I had never been. — At one house, a young woman, who was ill sent to entreat me to come to her room & show her the compass. If their surprise was great, mine was much greater to find such ignorance; & this amongst people, who possess their thousands of cattle & "estancia's" of great extent. — It can only be accounted for by the circumstance that this retired part of the country has seldom been visited by foreigners. I was asked whether the earth or sun moved; whether it was hotter or colder to the North; where Spain was & many more such questions. — Most of the inhabitants have an indistinct idea, that England, London, N. America are all the same place; the better informed well know that England & N: America are separate countries close together; but that England is a large town in London. — I had in my pocket some promethians, which I ignited by biting them between my teeth; to see this the whole family was collected; at one place and I was once offered a dollar for a single one. — My washing my face in the morning caused at Las Minas much speculation; at Las Minas a very superior tradesman closely cross-questioned me about so singular a practice; & likewise why on board we wore our beards, for he had heard from my guides that we did so. — He eyed me with much suspicion; perhaps he had heard of ablutions in the Mahomedan religion; knowing me to be a Heretic; perhaps probably he came to the conclusion that all Heretics are Turks. — It is the universal custom to ask for a nights lodging at the first convenient house. — The general astonishment at the compass &c &c and other things was to a certain degree advantageous, as with that & the long stories my guides told of my breaking stones, knowing venemous from harmless snakes, collecting insects &c I paid them for their hospitality. — Being able to talk very little Spanish, I was looked at with much pity, wonder & a great deal of kindness. — Some few however, I think, gave me the credit of having a good deal of the Dousterswivel* about me. — I am writing as if I was had been amongst the inhabitants of central Africa. Banda Oriental would not be flattered by the comparison, but such was my feeling when amongst them. — (C) We slept at a friend of Gonzales; & in the morning proceeded on to the town of Las Minas.
.
* Dousterswivel: A swindler, who obtains money under the promise of finding buried wealth by a divining-rod. (Scott: Antiquary.)
5th to 8th May 1833
Maldonado
During the greater number of these days, there has been torrents of rain & heavy thunder storms. The whole country is in a state of inundation, even so that many lives have been lost, the oldest inhabitants have never seen such weather before. It has necessarily prevented me from making a trip into the country which I had intended to have almost finished by this time. In consequence of these delays & the bad weather I have scarcely been able to set about anything. It anyhow has afforded me some good lessons in being patient & in speaking Spanish.
During the greater number of these days, there has been torrents of rain & heavy thunder storms. The whole country is in a state of inundation, even so that many lives have been lost, the oldest inhabitants have never seen such weather before. It has necessarily prevented me from making a trip into the country which I had intended to have almost finished by this time. In consequence of these delays & the bad weather I have scarcely been able to set about anything. It anyhow has afforded me some good lessons in being patient & in speaking Spanish.
4th May 1833
Maldonado
I rode about four leagues into the Camp to the head of a large fresh water lake called Laguna del Potrero. The object of my ride was to see a white marble, from which lime is manufactured. The day was beautiful & it was a pleasant ride over hill & dale of turf & surrounded by endless flocks of cattle, sheep & horses.
I rode about four leagues into the Camp to the head of a large fresh water lake called Laguna del Potrero. The object of my ride was to see a white marble, from which lime is manufactured. The day was beautiful & it was a pleasant ride over hill & dale of turf & surrounded by endless flocks of cattle, sheep & horses.
3rd May 1833
MaldonadoEvery person, even it is said to the beggars, ride here; it is thought quite out of the question to walk even so short a distance. As a proof, how very common horses are, the price of a saddle will buy three good ones. It is a most beautiful exhibition to see the boys riding on bare-backed colts & chasing each other over hill & dale, & twisting about in a manner which no one till he has seen it would believe a horse capable of. Their method of riding is certainly the most perfect & graceful, for showing the full power of a horse in all its actions.
2nd May 1833
MaldonadoThe torrents of rain almost entirely prevent me doing anything. It is impossible to go any distance into the country; as all the rivers are unusually full, & a bridge is an invention scarcely known in these parts.
The city of Maldonado is in reality only a small village; as is universally the case in Spanish, town, all the streets run in parallel lines cutting each other at right angles, & in the centre is the Plaza with its church. I never saw so quiet, so deserted, a looking place; it has scarcely any trade, & none by water until these few last years; it appears only to be a collection of land-owners & a few of the necessary tradesmen, such as blacksmiths & joiners, who do all the business for a circuit of 50 miles round. Nearly the only produce of the country is cattle & horses. These are both in wonderful numbers.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
The Beagle returned to Monte Video, to procure carpenters, plank, and copper for the Adventure. I found that she was so fine a vessel, and so sound, that it was well worth while to copper her entirely afresh, with a view to her future operations among islands in the Pacific, where worms would soon eat through places on a vessel's bottom from which sheets of copper had been torn away. At this time the Adventure's copper was complete, but thin, and as the carpenters said it would not last above two years more with certainty, I determined to copper her forthwith, and make one substantial refit do for all. Here, to my great regret, Mr. Hamond decided to return to England, and we consequently lost a valuable member of our small society.
The Beagle returned to Monte Video, to procure carpenters, plank, and copper for the Adventure. I found that she was so fine a vessel, and so sound, that it was well worth while to copper her entirely afresh, with a view to her future operations among islands in the Pacific, where worms would soon eat through places on a vessel's bottom from which sheets of copper had been torn away. At this time the Adventure's copper was complete, but thin, and as the carpenters said it would not last above two years more with certainty, I determined to copper her forthwith, and make one substantial refit do for all. Here, to my great regret, Mr. Hamond decided to return to England, and we consequently lost a valuable member of our small society.
1st May 1833
Maldonado
The day has been miserably spent in attempts to transact business by the aid of vilely bad Spanish. — The Beagle sails tomorrow for M. Video & will return in about a fortnight.
The day has been miserably spent in attempts to transact business by the aid of vilely bad Spanish. — The Beagle sails tomorrow for M. Video & will return in about a fortnight.
.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
On the 1st May Mr. Usborne sailed, having with him Mr. Forsyth and five men; he was to go to the River Negro, join and assist Mr. Stokes, and inform Lieutenant Wickham that he was wanted at Maldonado, to take charge of the Adventure. The Constitucion was about the size of the Liebre, a craft I should hardly have thought fit for such a voyage had I not heard so much from Mr. Harris and his companion, Roberts, of the capital weather those decked boats make in a gale. With their hatches secured, tiller unshipped, a storm try-sail—or no sail at all set, and nobody on deck, they tumble about like hollow casks, without caring for wind or sea.
On the 1st May Mr. Usborne sailed, having with him Mr. Forsyth and five men; he was to go to the River Negro, join and assist Mr. Stokes, and inform Lieutenant Wickham that he was wanted at Maldonado, to take charge of the Adventure. The Constitucion was about the size of the Liebre, a craft I should hardly have thought fit for such a voyage had I not heard so much from Mr. Harris and his companion, Roberts, of the capital weather those decked boats make in a gale. With their hatches secured, tiller unshipped, a storm try-sail—or no sail at all set, and nobody on deck, they tumble about like hollow casks, without caring for wind or sea.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)