Patagones to Buenos Ayres
We the next morning set out for Fort; but did not arrive there till 9 o’clock at night.
We the next morning set out for Fort; but did not arrive there till 9 o’clock at night.
29th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos Ayres
After dinner the Yawl started on a surveying cruise. I went in her. We slept at Punta Alta & I commenced a successful bone hunt. Leaving my servant & another man to continue their labours.
After dinner the Yawl started on a surveying cruise. I went in her. We slept at Punta Alta & I commenced a successful bone hunt. Leaving my servant & another man to continue their labours.
27th & 28th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos Ayres
Whole day consumed in telling my travellers tales.
Whole day consumed in telling my travellers tales.
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Actively employed in arranging things, in order to start to Buenos Ayres by land. — the feeling of excitement quite delightful after the indolence of the week spent at the fort of Bahia Bianca.
Actively employed in arranging things, in order to start to Buenos Ayres by land. — the feeling of excitement quite delightful after the indolence of the week spent at the fort of Bahia Bianca.
26th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos AyresA boat with Mr Chaffers arrived from the ship, we waited till the evening for a cow to be killed, to take fresh meat on board. We did not start till late, but the night was beautiful & calm. The ship had moved her berth, & we had a long hunt after her, at last arrived on board at 1/2 after one oclock.
25th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos AyresRode down to the creek: but there was too much wind for a boat to leave the ship. — In the evening Commandante Miranda arrived with 300 men; with orders to accompany Bernantios tribe & examine the "rastro" or track of the murderers. — If the latter was guilty, the whole tribe was to be massacred, if not to follow the rastro even if it led them to Chili. — Many of Mirandas troops were Indians; nothing could be more wild or savage than the scene of their bivouaccing. — Some of them drank the warm, steaming blood of the beasts which were slaughtered for supper.
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We subsequently heard that the rastro proved Bernantio to be guiltless. The Indians had escaped directly into the great plains or Pampas, & for some reason could not be pursued. — One glance at the Rastro tells to one of these people a whole history. — Supposing they examine the track of about a thousand horses, they will at once know, by the canter, how many men were with them, — by the depth of the impression, how many loaded horses; by the regularity of the footstep how far tired; by the manner in which the food is cooked whether the Indians were travelling very fast; by the general appearance of the rastro how old it is. — They consider one of 10 days or a fortnight old quite recent enough to be hunted out. — We also heard that Miranda started from the West end of the Sierra Ventana in a direct line to the Island of Churichoel; situated 70 leagues up the Rio Negro. — This is a distance of 2 or 300 miles & through a country entirely unknown. What other troops in the world are so independent? With the sun for their guide, mares-flesh for food, & the Recado's for beds, as long as there is water, these men would penetrate to the worlds end.
We subsequently heard that the rastro proved Bernantio to be guiltless. The Indians had escaped directly into the great plains or Pampas, & for some reason could not be pursued. — One glance at the Rastro tells to one of these people a whole history. — Supposing they examine the track of about a thousand horses, they will at once know, by the canter, how many men were with them, — by the depth of the impression, how many loaded horses; by the regularity of the footstep how far tired; by the manner in which the food is cooked whether the Indians were travelling very fast; by the general appearance of the rastro how old it is. — They consider one of 10 days or a fortnight old quite recent enough to be hunted out. — We also heard that Miranda started from the West end of the Sierra Ventana in a direct line to the Island of Churichoel; situated 70 leagues up the Rio Negro. — This is a distance of 2 or 300 miles & through a country entirely unknown. What other troops in the world are so independent? With the sun for their guide, mares-flesh for food, & the Recado's for beds, as long as there is water, these men would penetrate to the worlds end.
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Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
Lieutenant Sulivan went with a party to explore the furthest extreme of the inlet, while others were occupied, as usual, in the various duties always necessary on board a ship, in addition to those of a survey.
Lieutenant Sulivan went with a party to explore the furthest extreme of the inlet, while others were occupied, as usual, in the various duties always necessary on board a ship, in addition to those of a survey.
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Mr. Darwin was at Argentina, and hearing of our arrival, rode to the Wells. He had met General Rosas on the Colorado, who treated him very kindly; and he was enjoying his shore-roving without any annoyance, the old major being no longer afraid of a 'naturalista.'
Mr. Darwin was at Argentina, and hearing of our arrival, rode to the Wells. He had met General Rosas on the Colorado, who treated him very kindly; and he was enjoying his shore-roving without any annoyance, the old major being no longer afraid of a 'naturalista.'
24th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos AyresThe Ship was seen; its figure curiously altered by the refraction over the widely extended mud banks.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
On the 24th, we moored off the Wells, in Port Belgrano.
23rd August 1833
In the morning the rain did not cease, so we started on our return. In our path we saw a fresh track of a lion & commenced an unsuccessful chase: the dogs seemed to know what we were about & were not eager to find the beast.
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In these plains a very curious animal, the Zorilla or Skunk, is sufficiently common. — Its habits resemble those of fitchet, but it is larger & the body much thicker in proportion. — Conscious of its power, it roams about the open camp by day & fears neither dogs or men. — if a dog is encouraged to attack one. — the fetid oil, which is ejected makes him instantly very sick & run at the nose. — Clothes once touched are for ever useless. — Every other animal makes room for the Zorilla.
In these plains a very curious animal, the Zorilla or Skunk, is sufficiently common. — Its habits resemble those of fitchet, but it is larger & the body much thicker in proportion. — Conscious of its power, it roams about the open camp by day & fears neither dogs or men. — if a dog is encouraged to attack one. — the fetid oil, which is ejected makes him instantly very sick & run at the nose. — Clothes once touched are for ever useless. — Every other animal makes room for the Zorilla.
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On my return found my fellow traveller Harris arrived from the R. Colorado. A few days previously news had come that the Indians had murdered every soul in one of the Postas. — It was suspected that Bernantio's tribe, the same which the other day stopped here on the road to join General Rosas were the perpetrators. — Harris informed us, that a few miles from the Colorado he met these Indians, & that at the same instant an officer arrived bearing the following summary message, "that if Bernantio failed to bring the heads of the murderers, it should be his bitterest day for not one of his tribe should be left in the Pampas".
On my return found my fellow traveller Harris arrived from the R. Colorado. A few days previously news had come that the Indians had murdered every soul in one of the Postas. — It was suspected that Bernantio's tribe, the same which the other day stopped here on the road to join General Rosas were the perpetrators. — Harris informed us, that a few miles from the Colorado he met these Indians, & that at the same instant an officer arrived bearing the following summary message, "that if Bernantio failed to bring the heads of the murderers, it should be his bitterest day for not one of his tribe should be left in the Pampas".
22nd August 1833
Patagones to Buenos Ayres So tired of doing nothing, I hired the same guide & started for Punta Alta, which is not so distant & commands a good view of the harbor. I went this time better provided with bread & meat & horns with water & made up my mind to sleep there so as not to fatigue the horses. When not very far from our destination, the Gaucho spied 3 people on horse-back hunting. He immediately dismounted & watched them intently. He said they dont ride like Christians & nobody can leave the Fort. The three hunters joined company, & dismounted also from their horses, at last one mounted again & rode over the hill out of sight. The Gaucho said, "We must now get on our horses, load your pistol" & he looked to his sword. I asked are they Indians. Quien Sabe? (who knows?), if they are no more than three it does not signify. It then struck me that the one man had gone over the hill to fetch the rest of his tribe; I suggested this; but all the answer I could extort was, Quien sabe? His head & eye never for a minute ceased scanning slowly the whole horizon. I thought his uncommon coolness rather too good a joke; & asked him why he did not return home. I was startled when he answered: "We are returning, only near to a swamp, into which we can gallop the horses as far as they can go & then trust to our own legs. So that there is no danger". I did not feel quite so confident of this & wanted to increase our pace. He said, no, not until until they do. When any little inequality concealed us, we galloped, then but when in sight, continued walking. At last we reached a valley, & when turning to the left galloped quickly to the foot of a hill, he gave me his horse to hold, made the dogs lie down, & crawled on his hands & knees to reconnoitre. He remained in this position for some time & at last, bursting out in laughter, exclaimed: "Mugares" (women). He knew them to be the wife & sister in law of the Majors son, hunting for Ostriches eggs.
I have described the mans conduct because he acted under the full impression they were Indians. As soon however as the absurd mistake was found out, he gave me a hundred reasons why they could not have been Indians; but all these were forgotten at the time.
After this we proceeded on to Punta Alta and ate our dinner in peace & quietness. Punta Alta is the place where I found so many bones last year. I employed the evening in seeking for more & marking the places. There was a beautiful sunset & everything was deliriously quiet & still. But the appearances were false; an hour after being in bed, very heavy rain began, but I slept through it & was very little wet.
21st August 1833
Patagonas to Buenos Ayres
Bought a fine powerful young horse for £4-10s & rode about the neighbouring plains.
Bought a fine powerful young horse for £4-10s & rode about the neighbouring plains.
20th August 1833
Patagonas to Buenos AyresThe next morning with nothing to eat or drink we started; the horses could hardly walk; at last that of the Gaucho was quite tired, & as a Gaucho cannot walk, I gave up my horse & took to my feet. The sun was very hot & about noon the dogs killed a kid which we roasted & I eat some, which made me intolerably thirsty. The road was full of little puddles from some recent rain, yet every drop quite undrinkable. At last I could walk no more, & was obliged to mount my horse, which was dreadful inhumanity as his back was quite raw. I had scarcely been 20 hours without water & only part of the time with a hot sun; yet my thirst rendered me very weak. How travellers manage to live in Africa I do not understand. Although I must confess my guide did not suffer at all & was astonished that one days deprivation should be so troublesome to me. I do not know whether the poor horse or myself were most glad to arrive at the Fort.
19th August 1833
Patagonas to Buenos AyresI was anxious to see if the Beagle was in the mouth of the Bay. The Commandante lent me a soldier as guide & two horses; on the road we picked up two more; yet they were all such miserable horses, that one was left behind & the three others could hardly reach Anchor Stock hill, a distance of about 25 miles, where the Ship waters. My guide two months ago had a wonderful escape, he was out hunting with two companions, only a few leagues from the fort, when a party of Indians appeared, they balled the other two men & killed them. They then balled his horse, he jumped off & with his knife liberated the horses legs. Whilst doing this he was obliged to dodge behind his horse & thus received two bad Chusa wounds. Seizing an opportunity, he sprung on his horse, & could just manage to keep ahead of the Chusas till within sight of the Fort, when the Indians gave up the chase. From that time, there was an order against any individual leaving the fort. I did not know all this till near the coast, & had been surprised to see how earnestly my guide watched a deer which appeared to have been frightened from some other quarter.
After two hours rest, & not seeing the Beagle, we made an attempt to return; but only could manage two or three leagues & even then left a horse behind. In the morning we had caught an Armadillo, which was but a poor breakfast & dinner for two men. Where we slept at night the whole ground was thickly encrusted with saltpetre & of course no water.
Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
On the 19th of August, we anchored near the bar of the Negro, to meet the Paz and Liebre, take our officers and men on board, and pay Mr. Harris the money to which he was entitled, not only by contract, but by the uniform attention, activity, and thorough kindness, which he and his partner had shown to their temporary companions; by their knowledge as pilots, and by the useful information which they had readily given, to the full extent of their abilities. The complete success of that enterprise was greatly owing to the conduct of those two worthy men. Before dark all was settled, our party was safely on board; we quitted Harris and Roberts, with their useful little craft, mutually satisfied; and made sail for Blanco Bay, where there was still work to be done; intending to add to our already numerous soundings, while following the seaward edges of the banks.
18th August 1833
Patagonas to B. Ayres
The Beagle had not arrived. I had nothing to do, no clean clothes, no books, nobody to talk with. I envied the very kittens playing on the floor. I was however lucky in a hospitable reception by Don Pablo, a friend of Harris.
The Beagle had not arrived. I had nothing to do, no clean clothes, no books, nobody to talk with. I envied the very kittens playing on the floor. I was however lucky in a hospitable reception by Don Pablo, a friend of Harris.
17th August 1833
Patagonas to B. Ayres
In the morning he sent for the horses very early & we started for another exhilarating gallop. We passed the Cabeza del Buey, an old name given to the head of a large marsh which extends from Bahia Bianca. Here we changed horses & passed through some leagues of swamps & saltpetre marshes; changing horses for the last time, we again began wading through the mud. My animal fell & I was well souzed in black mire, a very disagreeable accident, when one does not possess a change of clothes. Some miles from the Fort we met a man who told us that a great gun had been fired, which is a signal that Indians are near. We immediately left the road & followed the edge of a marsh, which when chased, offers the best mode of escape; we were glad to arrive within the walls, when we found all this alarm was about nothing, for the Indians turned out to be friendly ones, who wished to join General Rosas.
In the morning he sent for the horses very early & we started for another exhilarating gallop. We passed the Cabeza del Buey, an old name given to the head of a large marsh which extends from Bahia Bianca. Here we changed horses & passed through some leagues of swamps & saltpetre marshes; changing horses for the last time, we again began wading through the mud. My animal fell & I was well souzed in black mire, a very disagreeable accident, when one does not possess a change of clothes. Some miles from the Fort we met a man who told us that a great gun had been fired, which is a signal that Indians are near. We immediately left the road & followed the edge of a marsh, which when chased, offers the best mode of escape; we were glad to arrive within the walls, when we found all this alarm was about nothing, for the Indians turned out to be friendly ones, who wished to join General Rosas.
16th August 1833
[Sierra Ventana]Patagonas to B. Ayres
Started early in the morning. Mr Harris did not accompany me as he was not quite well, & I was anxious to arrive at Bahia Bianca, not knowing when the ship would be there. We passed the Toldos of the Indians, which are without the regular encampment. — They are little round ovens covered with hides, with the tapering Chusa stuck in the ground by its entrance. — They were divided into separate groups, which belonged to the different Cacique's tribes, & each group of huts were divided into smaller ones, apparently according to the relationship of the owners. — The first Posta lay along the course of the Colorado. — the diluvial plains on the side appeared fertile & it is said are well adapted for the growth of corn: the advantage of having willows trees will be very great for the Estancias which General Rosas intends making here. — This war of extermination, although carried on with the most shocking barbarity, will certainly produce great benefits; it will at once throw open four or 500 miles in length of fine country for the produce of cattle.
From the 2nd to 3rd Posta began the grand geological formation, which I believe continues the same to St Fe, a distance of at least 600 miles. — The country had a different appearance from that South of the Colorado: there were many different plants & grasses & not nearly so many spiny bushes, & these gradually became less frequent; untill a little to the North there is not a bush. — The plain is level & of a uniform brownish appearance; it is interrupted by nothing, till about 25 miles North of the river, with a belt of red dunes stretching as far as the eye reaches to the East & West. — These are invaluable in the country, for resting on the clay the [they] cause small lakes in the hollows & thus supply that most rare article, fresh water. The extreme value of depressions & elevations in the land is not often reflected on. — the two miserable springs in the long passage between the Rios Nigro & Colorado are formed by two trifling inequalities in the plain, without which there absolutely would be none & of course boring would be quite unsuccessful. — The belt of sand hills is about eight miles wide, on the Northern edge the fourth Posta is situated; as it was evening & the fresh horses were distant we determined to pass the night here. —
The house is at the base of a ridge between one & two hundred feet high, a most remarkable phenomenon in this country-from this ridge there was an excellent view of the Sierra Ventana, stretching across the country & not appearing as at Bahia Bianca as a solitary mountain. — This posta was commanded by a Negro Lieutenant born in Africa & to his credit be it said there was not a Rancho between the Colorado & B. Ayres in half nearly such neat order. He had a little room for strangers & a small Corral for the horses, all made of sticks & reeds. He had dug a ditch round the house, as a defence in case of being attacked; it would however be poor one if the Indians were to come. — His only comfort appeared to be that he would sell his life dear.
Some short time ago, a body of Indians had travelled past his house in the night. If they had been aware of the Posta our black friend & his four soldiers would assuredly have been slaughtered. — I did not anywhere meet a more obliging man than this Negro; it was therefore the more painful to see that he would not sit down and eat with us.
Started early in the morning. Mr Harris did not accompany me as he was not quite well, & I was anxious to arrive at Bahia Bianca, not knowing when the ship would be there. We passed the Toldos of the Indians, which are without the regular encampment. — They are little round ovens covered with hides, with the tapering Chusa stuck in the ground by its entrance. — They were divided into separate groups, which belonged to the different Cacique's tribes, & each group of huts were divided into smaller ones, apparently according to the relationship of the owners. — The first Posta lay along the course of the Colorado. — the diluvial plains on the side appeared fertile & it is said are well adapted for the growth of corn: the advantage of having willows trees will be very great for the Estancias which General Rosas intends making here. — This war of extermination, although carried on with the most shocking barbarity, will certainly produce great benefits; it will at once throw open four or 500 miles in length of fine country for the produce of cattle.
From the 2nd to 3rd Posta began the grand geological formation, which I believe continues the same to St Fe, a distance of at least 600 miles. — The country had a different appearance from that South of the Colorado: there were many different plants & grasses & not nearly so many spiny bushes, & these gradually became less frequent; untill a little to the North there is not a bush. — The plain is level & of a uniform brownish appearance; it is interrupted by nothing, till about 25 miles North of the river, with a belt of red dunes stretching as far as the eye reaches to the East & West. — These are invaluable in the country, for resting on the clay the [they] cause small lakes in the hollows & thus supply that most rare article, fresh water. The extreme value of depressions & elevations in the land is not often reflected on. — the two miserable springs in the long passage between the Rios Nigro & Colorado are formed by two trifling inequalities in the plain, without which there absolutely would be none & of course boring would be quite unsuccessful. — The belt of sand hills is about eight miles wide, on the Northern edge the fourth Posta is situated; as it was evening & the fresh horses were distant we determined to pass the night here. —
The house is at the base of a ridge between one & two hundred feet high, a most remarkable phenomenon in this country-from this ridge there was an excellent view of the Sierra Ventana, stretching across the country & not appearing as at Bahia Bianca as a solitary mountain. — This posta was commanded by a Negro Lieutenant born in Africa & to his credit be it said there was not a Rancho between the Colorado & B. Ayres in half nearly such neat order. He had a little room for strangers & a small Corral for the horses, all made of sticks & reeds. He had dug a ditch round the house, as a defence in case of being attacked; it would however be poor one if the Indians were to come. — His only comfort appeared to be that he would sell his life dear.
Some short time ago, a body of Indians had travelled past his house in the night. If they had been aware of the Posta our black friend & his four soldiers would assuredly have been slaughtered. — I did not anywhere meet a more obliging man than this Negro; it was therefore the more painful to see that he would not sit down and eat with us.
15th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos Ayres
General Rosas sent a message, that he should be glad to see me, before I started, by this means I lost a day, but subsequently his acquaintance was of the greatest utility.
General Rosas is a man of an extraordinary character; he has at present a most predominant influence in this country & probably may end by being its ruler. — He is said to be owner of 74 square leagues of country & has about three hundred thousand cattle. — His Estancias are admirably managed, & are far more productive of corn than any others in the country. He first gained his celebrity by his laws for his own Estancia & by disciplining several hundred workmen or Peons, so as to resist all the attacks of the Indians. — He is moreover a perfect Gaucho: — his feats of horsemanship are very notorious; he will fall from a doorway upon an unbroken colt as it rushes out of the Corral, & will defy the worst efforts of the animal. He wears the Gaucho dress & is said to have called upon Lord Ponsonby in it; apologising by saying at the same time he thought the costume of the country, the proper & therefore most respectful dress. — By these means he has obtained an unbounded popularity in the Camp, and in consequence despotic powers. — A man a short time since murdered another; being arrested [&] questioned, he answered, "the man spoke disrespectfully of General Rosas & I killed him"; in one weeks time the murderer was at liberty. — In conversation he is enthusiastic, sensible & very grave. — His gravity is carried to a high pitch. I heard one of his mad buffoons (for he keeps two like the Barons of old) relate the following anecdote. I wanted very much to hear a piece of music, so I went to the General two or three times to ask him, he said to me, "go about your business for I am engaged". — "I went again"; "he said, If you come again I will punish you". — A fifth time I asked him & he laughed. — I rushed out of the tent, but it was too late; he ordered two soldiers to catch & stake me. I begged by all the Saints in Heaven he would let me off; but it would not do. — When the General laughs he never spares mad man or sound man."- The poor flighty gentleman looked quite dolorous at the very recollection of the Staking. — This is a very severe punishment; four posts are driven into the ground, & the man is extended by his arms & legs horizontally, & there left to hang stretch for several hours, — the idea is evidently taken from the usual method of drying hides.
My interview passed away without a smile & I obtained what I wanted, a passport and order for the government post horses, & this he gave me in the most obliging and ready manner. — When General Rosas, some months since, left B Ayres with his army, he struck in a direct line across the unknown country, & in his march left at wide intervals a posta of 5 men with a small troop of horses, so as to be able to send expresses to the Capital. — By these I travelled to Bahia Bianca & ultimately to Buenos Ayres. — I was altogether pleased with my interview with the terrible General. He is worth seeing, as being decidedly the most prominent character in S. America.
General Rosas sent a message, that he should be glad to see me, before I started, by this means I lost a day, but subsequently his acquaintance was of the greatest utility.
General Rosas is a man of an extraordinary character; he has at present a most predominant influence in this country & probably may end by being its ruler. — He is said to be owner of 74 square leagues of country & has about three hundred thousand cattle. — His Estancias are admirably managed, & are far more productive of corn than any others in the country. He first gained his celebrity by his laws for his own Estancia & by disciplining several hundred workmen or Peons, so as to resist all the attacks of the Indians. — He is moreover a perfect Gaucho: — his feats of horsemanship are very notorious; he will fall from a doorway upon an unbroken colt as it rushes out of the Corral, & will defy the worst efforts of the animal. He wears the Gaucho dress & is said to have called upon Lord Ponsonby in it; apologising by saying at the same time he thought the costume of the country, the proper & therefore most respectful dress. — By these means he has obtained an unbounded popularity in the Camp, and in consequence despotic powers. — A man a short time since murdered another; being arrested [&] questioned, he answered, "the man spoke disrespectfully of General Rosas & I killed him"; in one weeks time the murderer was at liberty. — In conversation he is enthusiastic, sensible & very grave. — His gravity is carried to a high pitch. I heard one of his mad buffoons (for he keeps two like the Barons of old) relate the following anecdote. I wanted very much to hear a piece of music, so I went to the General two or three times to ask him, he said to me, "go about your business for I am engaged". — "I went again"; "he said, If you come again I will punish you". — A fifth time I asked him & he laughed. — I rushed out of the tent, but it was too late; he ordered two soldiers to catch & stake me. I begged by all the Saints in Heaven he would let me off; but it would not do. — When the General laughs he never spares mad man or sound man."- The poor flighty gentleman looked quite dolorous at the very recollection of the Staking. — This is a very severe punishment; four posts are driven into the ground, & the man is extended by his arms & legs horizontally, & there left to hang stretch for several hours, — the idea is evidently taken from the usual method of drying hides.
My interview passed away without a smile & I obtained what I wanted, a passport and order for the government post horses, & this he gave me in the most obliging and ready manner. — When General Rosas, some months since, left B Ayres with his army, he struck in a direct line across the unknown country, & in his march left at wide intervals a posta of 5 men with a small troop of horses, so as to be able to send expresses to the Capital. — By these I travelled to Bahia Bianca & ultimately to Buenos Ayres. — I was altogether pleased with my interview with the terrible General. He is worth seeing, as being decidedly the most prominent character in S. America.
14th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos AyresThe weather was miserable & I had nothing to do: the surrounding country is a swamp & in (December) summer overflowed by the Colorado, which collects the snow water on the Cordilleras. My chief amusement was watching the Indian families as they came to buy little articles at the Rancho where I stayed. is said that General Rosas has about six hundred Indian allies. They certainly were very numerous. The men are a tall exceedingly fine race; yet it is easy to see the same countenance, rendered hideous by the cold, want of food & less civilization, in the Fuegian savage. Some authors in defining the primary races of man have separated these two classes of Indians, but I cannot think this is correct. Amongst the young women, or Chinas, some deserved to be called even beautiful; their hair is coarse but exceedingly bright & black; they wear it in two plaits hanging down to the waist. They have a high colour & eyes which glisten with brilliancy. Their legs, feet & arms are small & elegantly formed. Round the wrist & ankle they wear broad bracelets of blue beads. Nothing could be more interesting than some of the family groups. Two or three Chinas (women) ride on one horse; a mother with her two daughters would thus often come to buy sugar & Yerba. They mount their horses with much delicacy; the horses have a broad band round their necks, which reaches just below the chest; this they use as a stirrup, but stand, when using it, even more in front of the horse than a man does. When on, they ride like a man, but with their knees tucked up much higher. When travelling, the Chinas always ride the loaded horses, hence perhaps this habit. Their duty is likewise to pack & unpack the horses & make the tents for the night; they are in short, like the wives of all Savages, useful slaves.
The men fight, hunt, take care of the horses & make the riding gear: One of their chief in doors occupation is the continual knocking of two stones together, till they are both round. The bolas or balls are very important weapons with the Indian; he catches his game, & his wild horses with them; in fighting his first attempt is to throw his adversaries horse, & when entangled by the fall to kill him with the Chusa or long spear. If the balls only catch the neck or body of an animal, they are often carried away & lost. As the mere making of the stones round is the labour of two days, the manufacture of the balls is the most usual employment of the Indians. Several of the men & women had their faces painted red, but I never saw the horizontal bands so common amongst the Fuegians. Once I saw a man with a little blue circle & straight line leading from it beneath each eye: Their chief pride is having all their things made of silver. I have seen a Cacique with silver stirrups, spurs, head-gear of silver chain, handle of knife &c. &c. — & occasionally some silver ornaments in the hair. From presents of General Rosas, their clothing was generally cloth, with some little fur. They all had recado's, iron bits, & stirrups.
13th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos AyresOur distance was not more than 3 leagues from the R. Colorado; we soon left the desert sandstone plain & came to one of turf, with its flowers clover & little owls, the usual characteristic features of the Pampas. We passed a muddy swamp of considerable extent, which is occasionally overflowed by the Colorado. It is a Salitràl that in summer is encrusted with saltpetre & hence is covered with the same species of plants which grow on the sea beach.
We then arrived at the Colorado. The pass is about 9 leagues in a direct line from the mouth, but by water it is said to be not much less than 25. Its width here is about 60 yards generally it must be once & half as wide as the Severn at Shrewsbury. The tortuous course of the river is marked by numerous willow trees & beds of reeds. We were delayed crossing in the canoe by some immense troops of mares, which were swimming the river in order to follow the march of a division of troops into the interior. Mares flesh is the only food of the soldiers when thus employed. This gives them a very great facility in movement; for the distance & length of time horses can be driven over these plains is quite surprising. I have been assured an unloaded horse will travel 100 miles for many days successively.
The encampment of General Rosas is close to the river; it is square of 3 or 400 yards, formed by waggons, artillery, straw huts &c. The soldiers are nearly all Cavalry; believe such villainous Banditti-like army was never before collected together: the greater number of men are of a mixed race, between Negro, Indian & Spaniard: I know not the reason, but men of such origin seldom have good expressions.
I called on the Secretary to show my passport; he began to cross question me in a most dignified & mysterious manner. By good luck I had a letter of recommendation from the Government of B. Ayres to the Commandante of Patagones. I am bound to express in the strongest terms my obligation to the government of Buenos Ayres for the most obliging manner in which passports to all parts of the country was given me as Naturalist of the Beagle.) his was taken to General Rosas, who sent me a very obliging message & the Secretary returned all smiles & graciousness. We took up our residence in the Rancho or hovel of a curious old Spaniard, who had served with Napoleon in the expedition against Russia.
12th August 1833
Patagones to Buenos Ayres
The country continued the same. It is inhabited by very few living beings: the most common is the hare or Agouti, there are likewise some Ostriches & Guanaco. We passed the second well, the water of which is brackish, but I think chiefly with saltpetre. We found a good place for sleeping, the water was however so scanty that we could not take Mattee before starting the next morning. The Gauchos when travelling only eat twice in the day, at night & before daylight in the morning; by this means one fire serves for 24 hours; an object of great consideration in many parts of this country.
The country continued the same. It is inhabited by very few living beings: the most common is the hare or Agouti, there are likewise some Ostriches & Guanaco. We passed the second well, the water of which is brackish, but I think chiefly with saltpetre. We found a good place for sleeping, the water was however so scanty that we could not take Mattee before starting the next morning. The Gauchos when travelling only eat twice in the day, at night & before daylight in the morning; by this means one fire serves for 24 hours; an object of great consideration in many parts of this country.
11th August 1933
Patagones to Buenos AyresWe started early in the morning, but owing to some horses being stolen we were obliged to travel slow & accompany the Cargeroes or loaded horses. The distance between Patagones & the pass of the Colorado is 85 miles, & in all this distance there are only two springs of fresh water. They are called fresh, but even at this season were very brackish; in summer this must be a very disagreeable passage; from the heavy rain of yesterday we were well off, for there were several small puddles in the waggon ruts. We passed several small Salinas & in the distance there was one which was at least 3 or 4 leagues in length. The country has one universal appearance, brown withered grass & spiny bushes; there are some depressions & valleys.
Shortly after passing the first spring we came in sight of the famous tree, which the Indians reverence as a God itself, or as the altar of Walleechu. It is situated on a high part of the plain & hence is a landmark visible at a great distance. As soon as a tribe of Indians come in sight they offer their adorations by loud shouts. The tree itself is low & much branched & thorny, just above the root its apparent diameter is 3 feet. It stands by itself without any neighbour, & was indeed the first tree we met with; afterwards there were others of the same sort, but not common.
Being winter the tree had no leaves, but in their place were countless threads by which various offerings had been suspended. Cigars, bread, meat, pieces of cloth &c &c., poor people only pulled a thread out of their ponchos. The Indians both pour spirit & mattee into a hole & likewise smoke upwards, thinking thus to afford all possible gratification to Walleechu. To complete the scene the tree was surrounded by the bleached bones of horses slaughtered as sacrifices. All Indians of every age & sex make their offerings, they then think that their horses will not tire & that they shall be prosperous. In the time of peace the Gauchos who told me this had been witnesses of the scene; they used to wait till the Indians passed on & then steal from Walleechu their offerings. The Gauchos think that the Indians consider the tree itself as a God; but it seems far more probable that it is an altar. The only cause which I can imagine for this choice, is its being a landmark in a dangerous passage.
The Sierra de la Ventana is visible at an immense distance & a Gaucho told me, that he was once riding with an Indian a few miles to the North of the R. Colorado when the latter began making the same noise which is usual at the first sight of the tree, & putting his hand to his head & then in the direction of the Sierra. Upon being asked the reason of this the Indian said in broken Spanish "first see the Sierra". This likewise would render it probable that the utility of a distant landmark is the first cause of its adoration.
About two leagues beyond this very curious tree we halted for the night: at this instant an unfortunate cow was spied by the lynx-eyed Gauchos. Off we set in chase & in a few minutes she was dragged in by the Lazo & slaughtered. We here had the four necessaries for life "en el campo",-pasture for the horses, water (only a muddy puddle), meat & fire wood. The Gauchos were in high spirits at finding all these luxuries, & we soon set to work at the poor cow. This was the first night which I passed under the open sky with the gear of the Recado for a bed. There is high enjoyment in the independence of the Gaucho life, (a) to be able at any moment to pull up your horse and say here we will pass the night. The death-like stillness of the plain, the dogs keeping watch, the gipsy group of Gauchos making their beds around the fire, has left in my mind a strongly marked picture of this first night, which will not soon be forgotten.
10th August 1833
Rio Negro
The weather was bad, so would not start: our party was increased by five more Gauchos who were going on business to the Encampment. Everybody seemed glad of companions in this desolate passage.
The weather was bad, so would not start: our party was increased by five more Gauchos who were going on business to the Encampment. Everybody seemed glad of companions in this desolate passage.
9th August 1833
Rio NegroSome months ago the government of B: Ayres sent out an army, under the command of General Rosas to exterminate the Indians. They are now encamped on the Rio Colorado, in consequence the country is now very tolerably safe from Indians. The only danger is meeting with a few stragglers; but a week since a man lost his whole troop of mares but it was on the Southern shore of the river. As the Beagle intended to touch at Bahia Bianca, I determined to pass over land to that place.
I made arrangements with a guide for a troop of horses, & Mr Harris (of the little Schooner) who was going to take a passage to Buenos Ayres in the Beagle, agreed to accompany me.
8th August 1833
Rio NegroRode to the great Salina, which is worked for the exportation of its salt, it is situated about 15 miles up & 3 from the river, at this time it is nothing more than a large shallow lake of brine; but in summer it dries up & there is left a large field of snow white salt. Both on the banks of the river & on the edge of the lake there were heaps of many hundred tons ready for exportation. The working time is as it were the harvest for Patagones, the whole population encamps on the bank of the river & every morning with the bullock waggons the men go to the lake to draw out the salt & form the Montes. There are other Salinas which are more distant & these are many leagues in circumference & the salt several feet thick, a quantity sufficient to supply the world. Yet at M: Video they use English salt to make salted (On account of the salt petre) butter. So little do the inhabitants profit by the natural advantages of their country. In a like manner wheat in the province of B: Ayres produces an immense percentage yet a great deal of flour is imported from North America (on account of the Pobrillo or red blight.) Killing an animal & flaying it does not give much trouble, & hides in consequence are nearly the only produce which these indolent people care about.
Many of the geological facts connected with this Salina are curious & I returned highly satisfied with my ride.
6th & 7th August 1833
Rio NegroThe town is built on the cliff which faces the river; many of the houses are actually excavated in the Sandstone. The river is here about four times as wide as the Severn at Shrewsbury & the stream rapid. The many islands, with their willow trees & the headlands one seen behind the other, forming the Northern boundary of the flat valley, form by the help of the rising sun a view almost picturesque. The number of inhabitants is not great, there are many Indians & Spaniards of pure blood & a far less mixture of the two races than is common in these countries.
The tribe of the Cacique Leucanee constantly have their Toldos outside the town. Government supports them by giving them all the old horses to eat. They also work in making Horse-rugs, boots of the horses legs &c. What their character may have gained by lessening their ferocity, is lost by their entire immorality. Some of the younger men are however improving; they are willing to labour, & the other day a party agreed to go on a sealing voyage & behaved very well. They were now enjoying the fruits of their labour, by being dressed in very gay, clean clothes & being very idle. The taste they show in their dress is admirable; if you could turn one of these young Indians into a statue of bronze, the drapery would be perfectly graceful.
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In spite of its name of Negro ("black") the colour is more greenish than black. Nevertheless, the name is the literal translation of its aboriginal Mapuche name of Curú Leuvú. The river was also known by the name of Río de los Sauces (River of Willows) for the abundant weeping willows at its shores. [Wikipedia]
5th August 1933
[Patagones Indians]Rio Negro
Rode with Mr Stokes to the town of Patagones situated about 18 miles up the river; it was a pleasant ride, the road generally lying at the foot of the sloping cliff which forms Northern bank of the great valley of the R. Negro. We passed the ruins of some fine Estancias, which a few years since were destroyed by the Indians. They withstood several attacks; a man present at one gave me a very lively description of what took place. The Spaniards had sufficient notice to drive all the cattle & horses into the Corral which surrounded the house, & likewise to mount some small cannon. The Indians were Araucanians from the South of Chili; several hundred in number & highly disciplined. They first appeared in two bodies on a neighbouring hills; having there dismounted & taken off their fur mantles, they advanced naked to the charge (with exception of Nutria skin round waist). The only weapon of an Indian is a very long bamboo or Chusa ornamented with Ostrich feathers and pointed by a sharp spear head. My informer seemed to remember with the greatest horror, the quivering of these Chusas as they approached near. When close, the Cacique Pinchera, hailed the besieged to give up their arms or he would cut all their throats. As this would probably have been the result of their entrance under any circumstances, the answer was given by a volley of musketry. The Indians with great steadiness came to the very fence of the Corral, to their surprise they found the posts fastened together by iron nails instead of leathern thongs, & of course in vain attempted to cut them with their knives. This saved the lives of the Christians: many of the Indians were carried away by their companions, & at last one of the under Caciques being wounded the bugle sounded a retreat. They retired to their horses & seemed to hold a council of war. This was an awful pause for the Spaniards, as all their ammunition with the exception of a few cartridges was expended. In an instant the Indians mounted their horses & galloped out of sight.
Rode with Mr Stokes to the town of Patagones situated about 18 miles up the river; it was a pleasant ride, the road generally lying at the foot of the sloping cliff which forms Northern bank of the great valley of the R. Negro. We passed the ruins of some fine Estancias, which a few years since were destroyed by the Indians. They withstood several attacks; a man present at one gave me a very lively description of what took place. The Spaniards had sufficient notice to drive all the cattle & horses into the Corral which surrounded the house, & likewise to mount some small cannon. The Indians were Araucanians from the South of Chili; several hundred in number & highly disciplined. They first appeared in two bodies on a neighbouring hills; having there dismounted & taken off their fur mantles, they advanced naked to the charge (with exception of Nutria skin round waist). The only weapon of an Indian is a very long bamboo or Chusa ornamented with Ostrich feathers and pointed by a sharp spear head. My informer seemed to remember with the greatest horror, the quivering of these Chusas as they approached near. When close, the Cacique Pinchera, hailed the besieged to give up their arms or he would cut all their throats. As this would probably have been the result of their entrance under any circumstances, the answer was given by a volley of musketry. The Indians with great steadiness came to the very fence of the Corral, to their surprise they found the posts fastened together by iron nails instead of leathern thongs, & of course in vain attempted to cut them with their knives. This saved the lives of the Christians: many of the Indians were carried away by their companions, & at last one of the under Caciques being wounded the bugle sounded a retreat. They retired to their horses & seemed to hold a council of war. This was an awful pause for the Spaniards, as all their ammunition with the exception of a few cartridges was expended. In an instant the Indians mounted their horses & galloped out of sight.
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Another attack was still shorter; a cool Frenchman managed the gun, he stopped till the Indians had approached very close & then raked their line with grape shot. He thus laid thirty nine of them on the ground. Of course such a blow immediately routed the whole party.
Another attack was still shorter; a cool Frenchman managed the gun, he stopped till the Indians had approached very close & then raked their line with grape shot. He thus laid thirty nine of them on the ground. Of course such a blow immediately routed the whole party.
4th August 1833
Rio NegroCrossed the river & took a long walk to examine the South Barranca; the country is a level plain, which on the coast forms a perpendicular cliff about 120 feet high, having walked several miles along the coast, I with difficulty found a pass to ascend to the plain above. This plain has a very sterile appearance it is covered with thorny bushes & a dry looking grass, & will for ever remain nearly useless to mankind. It is in this geological formation that the Salinas or natural salt-pans occur; excepting immediately after heavy rain no fresh water can be found. The sandstone so abounds with salt, that all springs are inevitably very brackish. The vegetation from the same cause assumes a peculiar appearance; there are many sorts of bushes but all have formidable thorns which would seem to tell the stranger not to enter these inhospitable plains.
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Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
… there is now a mass of banks extending far to seaward, which make the coast from Blanco Bay to San Blas extremely dangerous; more particularly, as the adjoining shore is almost a dead flat, and so low, that in many parts it can only be seen when the observer is among, or upon, the shoals. The space between Union Bay and San Blas was very appropriately named by the Spaniards Bahia Anegada (dried up bay), because it is so shallow, and the inner parts are rather drowned land than actual water, being only covered at half tide. Falkner says, that a Spanish vessel was lost in this bay, the crew of which "saved themselves in one of the boats, and sailing up the river arrived at Mendoza." Whether this ship was called 'Los Cesares' I am not aware, but as there is an islet in the 'Bahia Anegada' named in the old Spanish charts, 'Isla de los Cesares,' I suspect that such was the fact, and incline to connect this story with the many rumours of a settlement, 'de los Cesares,' somewhere in the interior of Patagonia. Falkner says, that "the crew saved themselves in one of the boats;"* but there were few Spanish vessels about that coast in the early part of the eighteenth century whose whole crew could have been saved in one of their boats.† If the remainder had formed even a temporary encampment about San Blas, or near the river Negro, it would have been described, with much exaggeration, by Indians of the west, as well as by those of the East country. A few men might have been admitted into a tribe of Indians who improved their habits and dwellings, so far as to have given rise to the curious reports so much circulated in South America, during the last century and even in this—of a colony of white people, with houses and gardens, in the interior of the continent, somewhere about the latitude of forty degrees; according to some between two ranges of the Cordillera; others said it was in the plains; but all appeared to think there was no doubt of the existence of such a settlement.
.… there is now a mass of banks extending far to seaward, which make the coast from Blanco Bay to San Blas extremely dangerous; more particularly, as the adjoining shore is almost a dead flat, and so low, that in many parts it can only be seen when the observer is among, or upon, the shoals. The space between Union Bay and San Blas was very appropriately named by the Spaniards Bahia Anegada (dried up bay), because it is so shallow, and the inner parts are rather drowned land than actual water, being only covered at half tide. Falkner says, that a Spanish vessel was lost in this bay, the crew of which "saved themselves in one of the boats, and sailing up the river arrived at Mendoza." Whether this ship was called 'Los Cesares' I am not aware, but as there is an islet in the 'Bahia Anegada' named in the old Spanish charts, 'Isla de los Cesares,' I suspect that such was the fact, and incline to connect this story with the many rumours of a settlement, 'de los Cesares,' somewhere in the interior of Patagonia. Falkner says, that "the crew saved themselves in one of the boats;"* but there were few Spanish vessels about that coast in the early part of the eighteenth century whose whole crew could have been saved in one of their boats.† If the remainder had formed even a temporary encampment about San Blas, or near the river Negro, it would have been described, with much exaggeration, by Indians of the west, as well as by those of the East country. A few men might have been admitted into a tribe of Indians who improved their habits and dwellings, so far as to have given rise to the curious reports so much circulated in South America, during the last century and even in this—of a colony of white people, with houses and gardens, in the interior of the continent, somewhere about the latitude of forty degrees; according to some between two ranges of the Cordillera; others said it was in the plains; but all appeared to think there was no doubt of the existence of such a settlement.
* "In the year 1734, or thereabouts (within how many years after or before that time?), the masts and part of the hulk were seen," (Falkner, p. 77.) The so-called 'Isla de los Cesares' is closely attached to, if not a part of the main land at the west side of Anegada Bay.
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† Reports of the Cesares began to be circulated in the early part of the eighteenth century.
† Reports of the Cesares began to be circulated in the early part of the eighteenth century.
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In Villarino's Diary of his Exploration of Anegada Bay, I find that he was much assisted by horses and mules, which he carried on board his vessels, and landed as often as he had occasion to make a journey by land. At the river Negro I heard that some of these animals became so tame, and accustomed to landing and embarkation, that they would leap quietly into or out of the boats, when required.
In Villarino's Diary of his Exploration of Anegada Bay, I find that he was much assisted by horses and mules, which he carried on board his vessels, and landed as often as he had occasion to make a journey by land. At the river Negro I heard that some of these animals became so tame, and accustomed to landing and embarkation, that they would leap quietly into or out of the boats, when required.
3rd August 1833
Patagones on the Rio Negro
Arrived off the mouth of the Rio Negro, after firing several signal guns, the little Schooner La Lievre came out. In a short time I went on board her & we then returned within the mouth of the river. The Beagle stood out to sea to survey some of outer banks which employment will occupy her a week.
Arrived off the mouth of the Rio Negro, after firing several signal guns, the little Schooner La Lievre came out. In a short time I went on board her & we then returned within the mouth of the river. The Beagle stood out to sea to survey some of outer banks which employment will occupy her a week.
We joined the other Schooner & I spent a very pleasant evening in hearing all their adventures. Every one in them may thank providence that he has returned in safety. To survey an unknown coast in a vessel of 11 tons, & with one inch plank to live out in open sea the same gale in which we lost our whale-boat, was no ordinary service. It seems wonderful that they could last one hour in a heavy gale, but it appears the very insignificance of small vessels is their protection, for the sea instead of striking them sends them before it. I never could understand the success of the small craft of the early navigators.
We then anchored near the Pilot's house & I went there to sleep.
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Captain Fitzroy’s Journal:
On the 24th we sailed to Cape San Antonio, and thence along the coast, close by Cape Corrientes, and skirting the San Blas banks, till we anchored off the river Negro. There we found the Paz and Liebre just returned from their examination of those intricacies which surround the ports between Blanco Bay and San Blas. The Liebre came out to meet us with a satisfactory report of progress, as well as health; and, at her return, Mr. Darwin took the opportunity of going into the river, with the view of crossing overland to Buenos Ayres, by way of Argentina: after which, he proposed to make a long excursion from Buenos Ayres into the interior, while the Beagle would be employed in surveying operations along sea-coasts uninteresting to him. We then got under sail and began our next employment, which was sounding about the outer banks off San Blas and Union Bays, and examining those parts of Ports San Antonio and San José which the Paz and Liebre had been prevented doing by wind and sea; besides which, I wished to see them myself, for many reasons, more closely than hitherto. The accumulation of banks about San Blas, and near, though southward of the river Colorado, is an object of interest when viewed in connection with the present position of the mouth of that long, though not large, river, which traverses the continent from near Mendoza, and which may have contributed to their formation; at least, so think geologists.
On the 24th we sailed to Cape San Antonio, and thence along the coast, close by Cape Corrientes, and skirting the San Blas banks, till we anchored off the river Negro. There we found the Paz and Liebre just returned from their examination of those intricacies which surround the ports between Blanco Bay and San Blas. The Liebre came out to meet us with a satisfactory report of progress, as well as health; and, at her return, Mr. Darwin took the opportunity of going into the river, with the view of crossing overland to Buenos Ayres, by way of Argentina: after which, he proposed to make a long excursion from Buenos Ayres into the interior, while the Beagle would be employed in surveying operations along sea-coasts uninteresting to him. We then got under sail and began our next employment, which was sounding about the outer banks off San Blas and Union Bays, and examining those parts of Ports San Antonio and San José which the Paz and Liebre had been prevented doing by wind and sea; besides which, I wished to see them myself, for many reasons, more closely than hitherto. The accumulation of banks about San Blas, and near, though southward of the river Colorado, is an object of interest when viewed in connection with the present position of the mouth of that long, though not large, river, which traverses the continent from near Mendoza, and which may have contributed to their formation; at least, so think geologists.
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Syms Covington’s Journal:
Hove too off Río Negro August 3rd. Left ship the same day with Charles Darwin in the small schooners.
Hove too off Río Negro August 3rd. Left ship the same day with Charles Darwin in the small schooners.
The bahía, or mouth of the river, is not easily seen except when close too. There is a bar that runs across the bay and obstructs the passage of the small shipping to the river except at high tides and calm weather. Shipping is possible as high up as the settlement which is twenty six miles upriver. Its source is not known. The tide is very strong and rapid. About a mile and a half from the bahía lives the pilot on the North side of the river.
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